Dale, and Ed
Thanks. I'll reassemble and double-check my torque readings. Does the
shiny surface imply that I now need to use new bearings? I imagine not, but
I figured I'd ask. I've been trial fitting a crank-scraper for the
rover/buick 300 combo, so I've been hand-spinning it on and off for a week
or so (on a thin film of oil). I can't imagine that I've done any damage,
but I'll follow your advice.
James J.
-------Original Message-------
From: MGV8VT@aol.com
Date: Wednesday, January 14, 2004 12:43:12 PM
To: mgb-v8@autox.team.net
Subject: re:shiny bearings
James, sounds like either too much bearing crush (the shells stand
too proud of the parting surfaces) or incorrect torque on the studs/bolts
that
is causing the housing bore to pull in at the parting line. Whenever I line
hone a block I always stamp the bolt torque into the block so that it is
duplicated on assembly. Critical on aluminum blocks. If you measure the
bearing shells
themselves you will see that the wall thickness decreases as it nears the
end
of the bearing, this is to prevent any crank/bearing contact if there is
minor cap shift in a block or rod. You have all the main caps torqued,
correct?
I've had more than one customer call to say a crank won't spin when it turns
out
they have it just sitting on the bearings without the mains torqued. The
main
bores are not round until the bolts are tight.
Dale
[demime 0.99d.1 removed an attachment of type image/gif which had a name of
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