James, sounds like you are ok. I've only ever used Moldex in Mich for
nitriding and they always straighten them before they send them back. Sounds
like your shop knew enough to check it so I think that's a good sign. If you
are changing any of the main cap hardware, studs or ARP or whatever, it would
be a good idea to install all the caps, torque them to the value that you are
going to use on assembly, with the same lubricant, and have your shop check the
bores with a bore gage. I also line hone blocks and have seen all kinds of
weird stuff happen when the hardware is changed, or if the torque value is
altered, especially on aluminum. Or the poor mans check is to assemble it with
all
the bearings, rotate the crank several times, then inspect the bearings for
unusual wear, edge loading, cap shift etc. You can't be too careful in checking
everything. A little extra time and money now could save you hundreds later, I
see it everyday. I had a crank brought to me last week that went out of the
box in the motor, on the dyno, now back out of the motor to have me grind it.
Brand new aftermarket crank that has taper, out of round, and #4 main runs out
.003". Classic example of what happens when short cuts are taken. I don't
think the small pits you mention are anything to worry about, as long as they
do
not stand proud of the surface. Maybe just a casting flaw. Good luck, Dale
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