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Re: crank journal

To: mgb-v8@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: crank journal
From: MGV8VT@aol.com
Date: Mon, 22 Dec 2003 09:48:54 EST
Reply-to: MGV8VT@aol.com
Sender: owner-mgb-v8@autox.team.net
        James, sounds like you are ok. I've only ever used Moldex in Mich for 
nitriding and they always straighten them before they send them back. Sounds 
like your shop knew enough to check it so I think that's a good sign. If you 
are changing any of the main cap hardware, studs or ARP or whatever, it would 
be a good idea to install all the caps, torque them to the value that you are 
going to use on assembly, with the same lubricant, and have your shop check the 
bores with a bore gage. I also line hone blocks and have seen all kinds of 
weird stuff happen when the hardware is changed, or if the torque value is 
altered, especially on aluminum. Or the poor mans check is to assemble it with 
all 
the bearings, rotate the crank several times, then inspect the bearings for 
unusual wear, edge loading, cap shift etc. You can't be too careful in checking 
everything. A little extra time and money now could save you hundreds later, I 
see it everyday. I had a crank brought to me last week that went out of the 
box in the motor, on the dyno, now back out of the motor to have me grind it. 
Brand new aftermarket crank that has taper, out of round, and #4 main runs out 
.003". Classic example of what happens when short cuts are taken. I don't 
think the small pits you mention are anything to worry about, as long as they 
do 
not stand proud of the surface. Maybe just a casting flaw. Good luck, Dale

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