I've run into the same kind of voodoo. Once you remove a part from a TD, it
no longer fits. ;-) I swear the doors, rear fenders and fuel tank
magically changed dimension while separated from my car. I can only imagine
how hard it would be to fit a new fender.
Bob Donahue (Still Stuck in the '50s)
Email - bobmgtd@insightbb.com
Cars: 52 MGTD - #17639
71 MGB - #GHN5UB254361
Member: NEMGTR #11470
NAMGBR # 7-3336
Hoosier MGB Club
Olde Octagons of Indiana
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bill Snyder" <wtsnyder@bellsouth.net>
To: "MG T List" <mg-t@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, December 02, 2005 11:02 AM
Subject: Rear fender fitting and ignition light
> Good morning list. I have two issues I need your assistance with today.
>
> 1. I am having trouble refitting the rear fenders. The back inside edge
> wants to rub the rear shackle assembly of the leaf spring and the curve
> nearest the top edge of the fuel tank does not want to fit properly,
> leaving a large gap (approx 1/2-3/4" at widest point) where the piping
> goes. I have tried maneuvering every way that I can think of, but still
> have this fit problem. If I get the inside curve gap closed, the
> posterior-most bolt hole in the fender is way too high to attach to the
> frame bracket. When that rear bolt is placed in the proper position, I
> cannot lift the fender far enough to close the gap at the gas tank
> curve. Any ideas or tricks? Anything stupid I am missing? With the pain
> meds I am taking for my back, any mental errors ARE possible, even
> likely.
>
> 2. I still can't get the ignition light to go off after starting. I took
> the generator to a rebuild shop where they cleaned and tested it. They
> say it is fine. The yellow/green stripe wire is attached to the field
> connection (smaller connection) and the solid yellow to the larger
> connection. The connections to the control box facing it from the front
> of the car and going left to right are:
> Brown/Blue stripe
> Brown/White stripe
> Yellow/Green stripe
> Yellow
> Black
> I have cleaned the points of the control box gently with a matchbook
> cover. I have pecked it lightly to solidly (as suggested) with a
> screwdriver handle (cover off). With the car running, if I push down on
> the right side coiled cylinder the points on the right rear side of the
> box make contact and the ignition light goes off. When watching the
> ammeter during this exercise the following occurs. When the ignition is
> turned on before starting the ammeter reads -7.5V. After starting, it
> reads the same. When the right coil top in the control box is pressed
> causing the points to make contact a visible spark is seen at those
> points and the ammeter needle pegs to -30V and the ignition light goes
> off. I have reversed the connections to the ammeter, but that, of
> course, just makes the readings change sign to +7.5V and +30V (not sure
> which is correct). Any takers?
>
> On the up side, with the grill, front fenders and running boards in
> place, she is starting to look like a real TD!
> Thanks in advance for your advice. You guys have already saved me from
> insanity several times. The wife is out of town until Saturday night, so
> I'd like to get these problems rectified in her absence!
>
> Bill Snyder
> '53 TD getting closer
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