Good morning list. I have two issues I need your assistance with today.
1. I am having trouble refitting the rear fenders. The back inside edge
wants to rub the rear shackle assembly of the leaf spring and the curve
nearest the top edge of the fuel tank does not want to fit properly,
leaving a large gap (approx 1/2-3/4" at widest point) where the piping
goes. I have tried maneuvering every way that I can think of, but still
have this fit problem. If I get the inside curve gap closed, the
posterior-most bolt hole in the fender is way too high to attach to the
frame bracket. When that rear bolt is placed in the proper position, I
cannot lift the fender far enough to close the gap at the gas tank
curve. Any ideas or tricks? Anything stupid I am missing? With the pain
meds I am taking for my back, any mental errors ARE possible, even
likely.
2. I still can't get the ignition light to go off after starting. I took
the generator to a rebuild shop where they cleaned and tested it. They
say it is fine. The yellow/green stripe wire is attached to the field
connection (smaller connection) and the solid yellow to the larger
connection. The connections to the control box facing it from the front
of the car and going left to right are:
Brown/Blue stripe
Brown/White stripe
Yellow/Green stripe
Yellow
Black
I have cleaned the points of the control box gently with a matchbook
cover. I have pecked it lightly to solidly (as suggested) with a
screwdriver handle (cover off). With the car running, if I push down on
the right side coiled cylinder the points on the right rear side of the
box make contact and the ignition light goes off. When watching the
ammeter during this exercise the following occurs. When the ignition is
turned on before starting the ammeter reads -7.5V. After starting, it
reads the same. When the right coil top in the control box is pressed
causing the points to make contact a visible spark is seen at those
points and the ammeter needle pegs to -30V and the ignition light goes
off. I have reversed the connections to the ammeter, but that, of
course, just makes the readings change sign to +7.5V and +30V (not sure
which is correct). Any takers?
On the up side, with the grill, front fenders and running boards in
place, she is starting to look like a real TD!
Thanks in advance for your advice. You guys have already saved me from
insanity several times. The wife is out of town until Saturday night, so
I'd like to get these problems rectified in her absence!
Bill Snyder
'53 TD getting closer
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