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Re: [mg-tabc] regulator/cutout problems?

To: "B.A. Pockets Knipe" <knipebs@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: [mg-tabc] regulator/cutout problems?
From: "tnewton" <timnewton@menziesgroup.com.au>
Date: Mon, 24 Jan 2005 19:58:37 +1100
Hi B.A.......
certainly sounds like the cut out on the voltage regulator not doing its job.
You can test this while the regulator is in the car, or simply an auto
electrician who is familiar with this old stuff. A replacement air gap points
as a Lucas part should be available if the points are too bad to hold correct
adjustment, I know as I just had mine replaced for a TC ($20 AUD so about
$15.50 USD) including perfect adjustment on both sets!
If having real problems I can locate the instructions for testing or if in
real trouble, send the regulator to me and I will have it fixed at cost,
paperwork receipts etc etc
Regards
Tim Newton
Melbourne Australia
  ----- Original Message -----
  From: B.A. Pockets Knipe
  To: mg-tabc@yahoogroups.com
  Sent: Monday, January 24, 2005 2:06 PM
  Subject: [mg-tabc] regulator/cutout problems?




  Message to my honorable support group.  I got battery recharging
  problems (kind of a roadside bummer to turn on your headlights and
  quickly drain the battery finally killing the engine).  On the other
  hand the crank works great.

  The cockpit ammeter reads -2 amps until you turn on the lights.
  The dashboard ignition light does not come on at all.

  1.  I have started my fault diagnosis by checking the battery (it
  accepts a charge from my bench battery charger very well and holds
  that charge).

  2.  The fan/generator belt is tight.

  3.  I disconnected the D & F leads on the generator/dynamo and
  hocked up my voltmeter to the frame and to a short wire connecting
  terminals D & F (the result is 10 volts at 900 RPM and headed for off
  the scale at 2000 RPM).

  4.  Wires from the generator to the regulator tested okay with
  continuity checker.

  5.  I cleaned both sides, up & down surfaces of the Regular
  bobbins/armatures contact points with very fine sand paper (400 grit).

  I am now fairly certain that my problem is with the
  regulator/cutout.  With my Ford pick up I would now go buy a new
  regulator and trash the old one.  At nearly $400 bucks from Moss; I
  think I need to get some advice.  I think my 9-post is the original
  cutout/regulator.  The Lucas Fault Diagnosis Service Manual only
  talks about a 5-post regulator, and the T Series MG Service Manual
  only talks about adjustments (maybe implying that these regulators
  never break down).

  I can pull the regulator and take it to someone to diagnose at $70 a
  hour, or I can buy a new regulator (or maybe I am lost and missed the
  whole point).  If it is time to bring in the experts, any
  recommendations on a good auto electric shop in North Puget Sound
  (Seattle/Everett area).

  Any advice for an amateur?







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