Hi B.A.......
certainly sounds like the cut out on the voltage regulator not doing its job.
You can test this while the regulator is in the car, or simply an auto
electrician who is familiar with this old stuff. A replacement air gap points
as a Lucas part should be available if the points are too bad to hold correct
adjustment, I know as I just had mine replaced for a TC ($20 AUD so about
$15.50 USD) including perfect adjustment on both sets!
If having real problems I can locate the instructions for testing or if in
real trouble, send the regulator to me and I will have it fixed at cost,
paperwork receipts etc etc
Regards
Tim Newton
Melbourne Australia
----- Original Message -----
From: B.A. Pockets Knipe
To: mg-tabc@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Monday, January 24, 2005 2:06 PM
Subject: [mg-tabc] regulator/cutout problems?
Message to my honorable support group. I got battery recharging
problems (kind of a roadside bummer to turn on your headlights and
quickly drain the battery finally killing the engine). On the other
hand the crank works great.
The cockpit ammeter reads -2 amps until you turn on the lights.
The dashboard ignition light does not come on at all.
1. I have started my fault diagnosis by checking the battery (it
accepts a charge from my bench battery charger very well and holds
that charge).
2. The fan/generator belt is tight.
3. I disconnected the D & F leads on the generator/dynamo and
hocked up my voltmeter to the frame and to a short wire connecting
terminals D & F (the result is 10 volts at 900 RPM and headed for off
the scale at 2000 RPM).
4. Wires from the generator to the regulator tested okay with
continuity checker.
5. I cleaned both sides, up & down surfaces of the Regular
bobbins/armatures contact points with very fine sand paper (400 grit).
I am now fairly certain that my problem is with the
regulator/cutout. With my Ford pick up I would now go buy a new
regulator and trash the old one. At nearly $400 bucks from Moss; I
think I need to get some advice. I think my 9-post is the original
cutout/regulator. The Lucas Fault Diagnosis Service Manual only
talks about a 5-post regulator, and the T Series MG Service Manual
only talks about adjustments (maybe implying that these regulators
never break down).
I can pull the regulator and take it to someone to diagnose at $70 a
hour, or I can buy a new regulator (or maybe I am lost and missed the
whole point). If it is time to bring in the experts, any
recommendations on a good auto electric shop in North Puget Sound
(Seattle/Everett area).
Any advice for an amateur?
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