Hi Bud,
The MGB has shims to properly preload the tapered roller bearings. Nut is
torqued to 40 to 70 ft-lbs to allow nut slot to line up with hole in stub
axle.
The TD has ball bearings, hence no need to use shims and pre-load. However,
stub axle nut should still be torqued. As you say, MG TD and MGA shop manual
do not give a torque, but my Autobooks MGA/MGB manual says to tighten the
nut and "DO NOT SLACKEN OFF TO ALIGN A SPLITPIN HOLE". So, I would use 40 to
70 ft-lbs torque and hope this gives enough latitude to find a split pin
hole.
Members with early TDs with 5/8" BSF stub axle nuts should probably not go
to the upper limit of torque due to the weaker thread..
Maybe see you at Rochester GOF.
Regards, Bob
I decided to repack the front wheel bearings of my 52TD in preparation
for
the 1,000-ish mile (rt) drive from home (Plymouth, Mass.) to the GOF in
Rochester in a couple of weeks. I just finished doing the same thing to my
77B
so I didn't think much of it. The inner bearing was at the absolute limit
of my
puller, but it eventually did break loose and come off.
Reassembly, according to the books, is similar to the B, i.e., install
the
components in the hub, slide it onto the axle and tighten it down. However,
the
B has shims for end play setting and also has a torque spec. I don't see
any
sort of torque spec. for the axle nut. Do we assume that torquing it enough
to
get the castle nut to line up for a cotter pin is good enough?
One more --- anybody have a suggestion for a really good wheel bearing
grease? TIA.
--
Bud Krueger
http://home.ici.net/~bkrueger/
52TD
77MGB
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