Lew et All,
I removed the rear trunnion brass slider blocks and of course they are
quite worn. What is the recommended "brass" or any other material to make
these trunnions? Is there a better material than solid brass? I have a
lathe and boring mill so can cut the slots and turn the outside diameter.
BTW, the blocks that came out were 0.985" diameter. Is this correct? 1.000"
seems to be a nice snug fit in the steel trunnions.
I have now installed direct feed grease nipples at the pins at the front of
the rear spring. At least this area will get some lubrication now.
Is there any advantage in doing the same direct greasing for the rear of the
rear springs? Seems to me grease would be a better lubricant for this area.
I do currently have the correct central lub system to the rear sliders and I
have pumped oil through the lines. The oil does reach the brass sliders. .
Thanks for any advice.
Bob Grunau
There is no silentbloc in the rear spring eye. Snug the castellated nut up
against the flat washer and pit it. I wouldn't torque it up too much, just
enough to prevent looseness.
The rear trunnions should be free to rotate in the cross-tube housing.
Again, not tight, but enough to freely rotate without any perceptible
looseness.
Both pins (front and rear) ARE lubricated from the central lube system. The
front pin of the rear spring should have a tube attached toward the top of
the hanger pin on both near and off sides. The rear cross tube cap has a
fitting to which the lube tube is attached. The outermost spacer under the
cap is drilled to allow oil to reach the bronze trunnions.
If shimming is necessary of the rear trunnions, the shim is located between
the innermost bronze trunnion and the innermost steel spacer.
Cheers,
Lew Palmer
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