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stopping MMM MG's

To: mg-mmm@autox.team.net
Subject: stopping MMM MG's
From: mgwizard@caloundra.net
Date: Wed, 25 Oct 2000 08:57:34 +1000
Reply-to: mgwizard@caloundra.net
Sender: owner-mg-mmm@autox.team.net
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Folks,

There has been a bit of advice flowing on this subject. Whilst I am no 
expert, I have been successful in getting my P-type to stop with cable 
brakes. Perhaps some of you may be interested in my experiences.

I guess the ultimate is Hydraulic brakes.  In this regard there are new 
twin leading shoe brakes made in UK for 12" replacement & they have 
Aluminium backing plates.  Cost Pounds Sterling 2500.00.

But I have always wanted to maintain the correct look on my cars (well, 
until now) and I reckoned that if MG could achieve the braking results 
quoted in magazines of the time, I felt I should be able to achieve the 
same thing & maintain the cable brakes.

First, all mechanical components must be in top order.  Basic, but vital. 
There is only very marginal travel on the brake cable at the cam lever and 
you cannot afford to lose any of this travel distance.

I contacted Bendix who advised me that the only material manufactured 
these days had a maximum operating temperature of 150 degrees centigrade. 
Big problem as my brakes did get extremely hot.

So, via a good friend in USA, I arranged that he had his set of P-type 
shoes bonded with carbon kevlar.  I went on a trip (from Australia) and 
swapped brake shoes with him.  I then built a machine with an MG centre 
hub & a steel disk as the backing plate with the correct mounting for the 
shoes & actuating cam. Thus it is possible to grind the linings on a 
linishing machine belt in the exact profile of the way they are fitted on 
the car. Hey presto, the linings came in contact with the brake drums on 
ALL of their surface.

I think this is a superior method to having them ground at a brake place 
or using the lathe.

Next I reasoned that we could do with extra pressure.  So the simple thing 
was to reduce the size of the brake actuating cam to a minimum. This 
increases the leverage a really good percentage. Obviously this involves 
adjusting the brakes more often than with the larger cam.  It certainly 
assists with the problem.

Finally, I reasoned that a larger surface area on the brake pedal would 
exert more pressure.  So I had made up a bolt on larger pedal.  This was 
done so as I did not ruin any original part.  This made a huge difference.

So, in summary there are three steps (assuming that all mechanical 
operations are perfect) :-
1) Use carbon kevlar linings
2)Reduce the diameter of the brake lever cam to a minimum
3)Increase the size of the foot pedal

Carbon Kevlar is available from Portfield Enterprises Ltd. Costa Mesa, CA 
USA.  Carbon Kevlar works very well from cold and beautifully when a 
little warmer.  I certainly will be using it on my new race car.

Wheels also become an issue once you get to this point.

Perhaps some one would forward this onto the chap who originally raised 
the issue.  Just may be, it will assist him.

Regards to all

Pip
--=_alternative 007E1ED34A256982_=


<br><font size=2 face="sans-serif">Folks,</font>
<br>
<br><font size=2 face="sans-serif">There has been a bit of advice flowing on 
this subject. Whilst I am no expert, I have been successful in getting my 
P-type to stop with cable brakes. Perhaps some of you may be interested in my 
experiences.</font>
<br>
<br><font size=2 face="sans-serif">I guess the ultimate is Hydraulic brakes. 
&nbsp;In this regard there are new twin leading shoe brakes made in UK for 
12&quot; replacement &amp; they have Aluminium backing plates. &nbsp;Cost 
Pounds Sterling 2500.00.</font>
<br>
<br><font size=2 face="sans-serif">But I have always wanted to maintain the 
correct look on my cars (well, until now) and I reckoned that if MG could 
achieve the braking results quoted in magazines of the time, I felt I should be 
able to achieve the same thing &amp; maintain the cable brakes.</font>
<br>
<br><font size=2 face="sans-serif">First, all mechanical components must be in 
top order. &nbsp;Basic, but vital. &nbsp;There is only very marginal travel on 
the brake cable at the cam lever and you cannot afford to lose any of this 
travel distance.</font>
<br>
<br><font size=2 face="sans-serif">I contacted Bendix who advised me that the 
only material manufactured these days had a maximum operating temperature of 
150 degrees centigrade. &nbsp;Big problem as my brakes did get extremely 
hot.</font>
<br>
<br><font size=2 face="sans-serif">So, via a good friend in USA, I arranged 
that he had his set of P-type shoes bonded with carbon kevlar. &nbsp;I went on 
a trip (from Australia) and swapped brake shoes with him. &nbsp;I then built a 
machine with an MG centre hub &amp; a steel disk as the backing plate with the 
correct mounting for the shoes &amp; actuating cam. Thus it is possible to 
grind the linings on a linishing machine belt in the exact profile of the way 
they are fitted on the car. Hey presto, the linings came in contact with the 
brake drums on ALL of their surface.</font>
<br>
<br><font size=2 face="sans-serif">I think this is a superior method to having 
them ground at a brake place or using the lathe.</font>
<br>
<br><font size=2 face="sans-serif">Next I reasoned that we could do with extra 
pressure. &nbsp;So the simple thing was to reduce the size of the brake 
actuating cam to a minimum. This increases the leverage a really good 
percentage. Obviously this involves adjusting the brakes more often than with 
the larger cam. &nbsp;It certainly assists with the problem.</font>
<br>
<br><font size=2 face="sans-serif">Finally, I reasoned that a larger surface 
area on the brake pedal would exert more pressure. &nbsp;So I had made up a 
bolt on larger pedal. &nbsp;This was done so as I did not ruin any original 
part. &nbsp;This made a huge difference.</font>
<br>
<br><font size=2 face="sans-serif">So, in summary there are three steps 
(assuming that all mechanical operations are perfect) :-</font>
<br><font size=2 face="sans-serif">1) Use carbon kevlar linings</font>
<br><font size=2 face="sans-serif">2)Reduce the diameter of the brake lever cam 
to a minimum</font>
<br><font size=2 face="sans-serif">3)Increase the size of the foot pedal</font>
<br>
<br><font size=2 face="sans-serif">Carbon Kevlar is available from Portfield 
Enterprises Ltd. Costa Mesa, CA USA. &nbsp;Carbon Kevlar works very well from 
cold and beautifully when a little warmer. &nbsp;I certainly will be using it 
on my new race car.</font>
<br>
<br><font size=2 face="sans-serif">Wheels also become an issue once you get to 
this point.</font>
<br>
<br><font size=2 face="sans-serif">Perhaps some one would forward this onto the 
chap who originally raised the issue. &nbsp;Just may be, it will assist 
him.</font>
<br>
<br><font size=2 face="sans-serif">Regards to all</font>
<br>
<br><font size=2 face="sans-serif">Pip</font>
--=_alternative 007E1ED34A256982_=--
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