You really don't need a pump..
Pretty elegant solution Eh..
You have both the BTU to raise the water to boiling and then the latent heat
of vaporization..
Dave
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-land-speed@autox.team.net
> [mailto:owner-land-speed@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of 3liter
> Sent: Tuesday, May 03, 2005 10:15 PM
> To: land-speed submit
> Subject: Internal Radiator
>
>
> Dave et al, many thanks for responding.
>
> Hmm, your description raises a very interesting point. Since the cooling
> reservoir (not the closed-loop engine supply) is vented to atmosphere it
> will boil at LESS than 212 F because Bonneville altitude is about 4400 ft.
> That in itself, is like a great thermostat! The RATE of boiling
> can increase
> but the boiling TEMP will never get above the ambient boiling
> point. So now
> you have a , thermostated, pressurized, closed-loop, engine
> coolant system,
> (that could have a boiling point way ABOVE 212F) conducting heat into a
> coolant reservoir that can never get above 180F-190F (my guess) and it
> doesn't even have a thermostat in it!
>
>
>
> How do you insure circulation of the cooling fluid through the engine's
> radiator? Is a pump imbedded in the cooling reservoir?
>
>
>
> Brian, I wasn't sure of what your alcohol mix was referring to. The engine
> coolant or the ambient coolant reservoir? Either way I don't think it is
> necessary (unless you are worried about freezing) because a
> thermostat does
> the same thing for the engine and the ambient tank will boil (at altitude)
> below 212F. Properly sized it should never boil, but why care if it boils
> anyway as long as the steam is collected.
>
>
>
> Sizing the volume of the coolant tank is fairly straight-forward.
> Both Mayf
> and I have provided those calcs in the past. Check the archives. -Elon
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