Seems to me one of the best ways to do this would be to sense road movement
(how fast and what direction I am passing over the surface - sonic or RF
doppler radar? ), tire speed (to match the tire speed to the surface speed
+/- a little slippage factor) and G load. Keeping the tire speed pretty
well matched to the asphalt/dirt/salt would seem to be the best way to
maximize the traction. Watch the G load in a curve for its maximum value.
line (not in a turn) spins. (Though occasionally I've gotten the 360 degree
tour when the tire speeds were well matched to the surface - suspect loose
material (sand) or surface roughness in harmony with the suspension.)
Then again, if you're going rickety split and you jerk the steering to one
side, all the rev reduction in the world probably won't help. But if you
were negotiating a constant curve it would be very seductive to just floor
it and let the computer walk you up to the knife edge.
Makes the accelerometer rev limiter combination sound plausible. In the
turn, keep allowing a little more and a little more rev to create a litte
more and a little more G until you either start to lose G (sliding starts)
or the pucker factor lightens your foot.
Scary part is that if you are right on the edge, one blip and it's gone.
Now if you are 'driving' at that point, you may be on top of it enough to
save it. If you are just a 'passenger', you may not be able to get it
together fast enough. My experience with racing tires is that they stick
great up to a point, and then break away fast. Once traction is lost, I
have found it 'very' difficult to re-match a racing tire to the surface
(regain traction). Street tires seem to be much more forgiving and much
easier to get 're-stuck'.
Comments or other experiences?
Jim.
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