John Goodman and I were having this conversation today reference Honing
materials that don't require break in's... The bore is Race ready out of the
machine.... Run it... I think I conned him into joining the Digest version
of this List.... so maybe we can hear from him about it....
Keith
----- Original Message -----
From: "tim schoeny" <tschoen@fuse.net>
To: "Skip Higginbotham" <saltrat@pro-blend.com>
Cc: "John Beckett" <landspeedracer@email.msn.com>;
<land-speed@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, January 10, 2001 6:40 PM
Subject: Re: Additives
> My cam grinder and short block builder both recommend "conventional" oil
for
> break-in and then(if you want) synthetic for racing..Honda rings take
forever to
> seat and starting out with syn. is not recommended.Just what I do.
> Tim
Schoeny
>
> Skip Higginbotham wrote:
>
> > By the way, if you put Pro-blend in a new engine's oil it will take
about 5
> > times longer to break the rings in. Guess where the benefit is? Better
> > lubrication.
> > S
> >
> > Not true, John.
> > Break-in should take about 10% longer but there is no reason not to use
the
> > oil.
> > Skip Higginbotham
> >
> > At 01:58 PM 1/10/01 , you wrote:
> > >It was my understanding the synthitic oils of any kind are a NO NO in
new
> > >componets. They do not allow the proper break-in to take place, and
should
> > >only be used in components after the normal break-in has been finished.
> > >What say ye?
> > >
> > >John Beckett
> > >----- Original Message -----
> > >From: "DOUG ODOM" <popms@thegrid.net>
> > >To: "Chris R Harris" <yesford@clear.net.nz>
> > >Cc: "land-speed" <land-speed@autox.team.net>
> > >Sent: Tuesday, January 09, 2001 7:23 PM
> > >Subject: Re: Additives
> > >
> > >
> > >> Chris; Slick 50 is nothing more than Dupont Teflon repackaged. In the
> > >> states we can buy the K-mart teflon for less money and it's the same
> > >> thing. A friend of mine did some testing with mobil one and teflon on
> > >> the dyno. He said he made the most power with one Quart mobil one and
> > >> five quarts teflon. The bearings never took a hit. I thought about
using
> > >> it myself instead of straight mobil one but I guess I lack the
testicle
> > >> fortitude. I have used Amsoil in transmissions and rear ends with
good
> > >> luck but the one time I tried it in a motor it started to wear the
> > >> bearings. Change back to Valvoline 50w and the bearings (vandervell)
ran
> > >> all season with no wear. Just my 2 cents worth.
> > >> Doug Odom in big ditch
> > >>
> > >> Chris R Harris wrote:
> > >> >
> > >> > Compliments of the season to all on the list, thinking positively,
2001
> > >is
> > >> > going to be a great year.
> > >> >
> > >> > New subject additives. What is the lists opinion on the subject, do
you
> > >have a
> > >> > favorite, are they strictly 'mouse milk', most certainly don't
stack up
> > >to
> > >> > the claims made, some definitely do help. The one I use in my
manual
> > >trans and
> > >> > diff on the roadster (definitely not the engine though) is Slick
50. My
> > >> > experience here was using a heavy rotary slasher on the farm.
Powered by
> > >a 100
> > >> > hp tractor, these very basic slashers swinging a heavy hub with 4
> > >swinging
> > >> > blades, had a simple right angle bevel gear box between the PTO
shaft
> > >and
> > >> > blade. In heavy going that box would get stink'in hot, couldn't
touch
> > >it,
> > >> > always used the recommended oil. The addition of Slick made a huge
> > >reduction
> > >> > in box temperature, thats what convinced me it was doing its job.
> > >> >
> > >> > Lets hear your opinion including others like good assembly lubes or
> > >other
> > >> > special brews you have for particular purposes, there has to be
plenty
> > >out
> > >> > there.
> > >> >
> > >> > Chris Harris New Zealand.
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