My cam grinder and short block builder both recommend "conventional" oil for
break-in and then(if you want) synthetic for racing..Honda rings take forever to
seat and starting out with syn. is not recommended.Just what I do.
Tim Schoeny
Skip Higginbotham wrote:
> By the way, if you put Pro-blend in a new engine's oil it will take about 5
> times longer to break the rings in. Guess where the benefit is? Better
> lubrication.
> S
>
> Not true, John.
> Break-in should take about 10% longer but there is no reason not to use the
> oil.
> Skip Higginbotham
>
> At 01:58 PM 1/10/01 , you wrote:
> >It was my understanding the synthitic oils of any kind are a NO NO in new
> >componets. They do not allow the proper break-in to take place, and should
> >only be used in components after the normal break-in has been finished.
> >What say ye?
> >
> >John Beckett
> >----- Original Message -----
> >From: "DOUG ODOM" <popms@thegrid.net>
> >To: "Chris R Harris" <yesford@clear.net.nz>
> >Cc: "land-speed" <land-speed@autox.team.net>
> >Sent: Tuesday, January 09, 2001 7:23 PM
> >Subject: Re: Additives
> >
> >
> >> Chris; Slick 50 is nothing more than Dupont Teflon repackaged. In the
> >> states we can buy the K-mart teflon for less money and it's the same
> >> thing. A friend of mine did some testing with mobil one and teflon on
> >> the dyno. He said he made the most power with one Quart mobil one and
> >> five quarts teflon. The bearings never took a hit. I thought about using
> >> it myself instead of straight mobil one but I guess I lack the testicle
> >> fortitude. I have used Amsoil in transmissions and rear ends with good
> >> luck but the one time I tried it in a motor it started to wear the
> >> bearings. Change back to Valvoline 50w and the bearings (vandervell) ran
> >> all season with no wear. Just my 2 cents worth.
> >> Doug Odom in big ditch
> >>
> >> Chris R Harris wrote:
> >> >
> >> > Compliments of the season to all on the list, thinking positively, 2001
> >is
> >> > going to be a great year.
> >> >
> >> > New subject additives. What is the lists opinion on the subject, do you
> >have a
> >> > favorite, are they strictly 'mouse milk', most certainly don't stack up
> >to
> >> > the claims made, some definitely do help. The one I use in my manual
> >trans and
> >> > diff on the roadster (definitely not the engine though) is Slick 50. My
> >> > experience here was using a heavy rotary slasher on the farm. Powered by
> >a 100
> >> > hp tractor, these very basic slashers swinging a heavy hub with 4
> >swinging
> >> > blades, had a simple right angle bevel gear box between the PTO shaft
> >and
> >> > blade. In heavy going that box would get stink'in hot, couldn't touch
> >it,
> >> > always used the recommended oil. The addition of Slick made a huge
> >reduction
> >> > in box temperature, thats what convinced me it was doing its job.
> >> >
> >> > Lets hear your opinion including others like good assembly lubes or
> >other
> >> > special brews you have for particular purposes, there has to be plenty
> >out
> >> > there.
> >> >
> >> > Chris Harris New Zealand.
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