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Reminds me ... Decades ago, there was a 'meme'--before memes were a
thing--consisting of an image of all the 'special tools' BMC insisted a
mechanic needed to work on their cars. There was a picture of every
tool, next to an 'equal' sign and ... a hammer. I had a copy of it,
always good for a chuckle, but that computer was stolen; anyone still
have it?
On 6/20/2023 8:55 AM, Michael Salter wrote:
> Point of interest ... there's actually a special tool for removing
> the pump.
> I think I've only ever used it once!!
>
>
>
> On Tue., Jun. 20, 2023, 11:48 a.m. Bob Spidell, <bspidell@comcast.net>
> wrote:
>
> re: "Now the oil pump. This is not simply held in place by the 2
> screws. It is an interference fit and needs to be pulled out with
> a 7/16 - 20 bolt - actually a couple of varying lengths makes it
> easier. Also a selection of large washers and spacers are
> required. To ensure that it does not twist on you you need some
> longer about 1/12 in 8-32 screws that replace the shorter ones
> mentioned. Also the NR valve MUST be removed and this in turn
> implies that the hydraulic cover and large accumulator spring is
> out. Furthermore the pump has to be fitted in the correct
> orientation. I try to make a mark but easy to get it wrong if
> lying on your back. Damage can be done inserting it the wrong way
> around."
>
>
> Roger,
>
> Thanks for the correction. I watched the process from a distance
> so missed many of the details (plus, it was 6-7 years ago).
>
> Bob
>
>
> On 6/20/2023 8:42 AM, Roger Grace wrote:
>> A few minor corrections ...
>> Yes MS is correct there is simply no substitute for having a
>> spare shaft - I try to say goodnight to mine every evening !
>> I have made his special tool and can confirm it does work.
>> However it does imply that the OD is open between the adaptor
>> flange and the OD.
>> I also use the wire/twine technique.
>>
>> Now the oil pump. This is not simply held in place by the 2
>> screws. It is an interference fit and needs to be pulled out with
>> a 7/16 - 20 bolt - actually a couple of varying lengths makes it
>> easier. Also a selection of large washers and spacers are
>> required. To ensure that it does not twist on you you need some
>> longer about 1/12 in 8-32 screws that replace the shorter ones
>> mentioned. Also the NR valve MUST be removed and this in turn
>> implies that the hydraulic cover and large accumulator spring is
>> out. Furthermore the pump has to be fitted in the correct
>> orientation. I try to make a mark but easy to get it wrong if
>> lying on your back. Damage can be done inserting it the wrong way
>> around.
>>
>> Nowadays I find it easier to assemble the complete OD with the
>> adapter plate already fitted to the OD. You then don't have to
>> fight with the release springs as well as gasket goo and the oil
>> pump spring retention all together. Then use the dummy to do the
>> bl alignment after some careful threading to pull back the pump
>> spring. I have used this a few times lowering onto the GB and
>> also even on its side. Patience !
>> rg
>>
>>
>> On Tue, Jun 20, 2023 at 5:03â?¯AM Michael Salter
>> <michaelsalter@gmail.com> wrote:
>>
>> Although one may be difficult to find there is no substitute
>> for a spare gearbox 3rd motion shaft for this job.
>> The spare shaft is used to align all the internals then,
>> using my special tool to hold the pump plunger retracted
>>
>> https://precisionsportscar.com/laycock-de-normanville-overdrive-installation-tool/
>> Â it is a simple task to lower the overdrive onto the gearbox.
>>
>> M
>>
>> On Mon., Jun. 19, 2023, 11:41 p.m. Bob Spidell,
>> <bspidell@comcast.net> wrote:
>>
>> There is a bronze thrust washer that has to be perfectly
>> centered to get that last 3/4" (#148 in this diagram):
>>
>> https://mossmotors.com/ahy-041-overdrive-unit-bn2-thru-bj8
>>
>> You can wiggle it around with a long screwdriver, or use
>> a suitable 'drift' to center it. Your best bet is to sit
>> the O/D on end and lower the gearbox onto it; gently
>> rotating the gearbox while lowering. First time I did
>> this I must have got lucky, but danged if I can explain
>> this (see attached photo). Most recently I fought for a
>> couple days then threw in the towel and took gearbox and
>> O/D to BCS which, fortunately, is only a half-hour away.
>> David and his mechanics had a novel technique I've not
>> heard described anywhere; basically, he removed the pump
>> completely--it's only two screws IIRC--and split the O/D
>> into front and rear sections and tipped the gearbox and
>> O/D up--gearbox on bottom--then had two of his mechanics
>> pull the sections together with huge channellock pliers
>> while David rotated the output shaft to 'feel it in' (you
>> had to be there).
>>
>> Good luck. Make triply sure you have the pump cam
>> oriented correctly, or you'll get more experience with
>> this process than you probably want.
>>
>> bs
>>
>> On 6/19/2023 6:18 PM, warthodson--- via Healeys wrote:
>>> I spent the day assisting a friend trying to mate his OD
>>> to his transmission. The car is a '63 BJ7. The overdrive
>>> & Trans. were pulled to replace a few internal trans
>>> parts which was done & we did not run into any issues.
>>> We can get the OD to within approx. 1/2-3/4" of mating
>>> to the trans, but cannot close that gap. We have
>>> confirmed that the oil pump roller has been fully
>>> retracted. What are we bumping up against & how do we
>>> get past it?
>>> Gary Hodson
>>>
>>
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>>
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>
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<body>
Reminds me ... Decades ago, there was a 'meme'--before memes were a
thing--consisting of an image of all the 'special tools' BMC
insisted a mechanic needed to work on their cars. There was a
picture of every tool, next to an 'equal' sign and ... a hammer. I
had a copy of it, always good for a chuckle, but that computer was
stolen; anyone still have it?<br>
<br>
<br>
<div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 6/20/2023 8:55 AM, Michael Salter
wrote:<br>
</div>
<blockquote type="cite"
cite="mid:CAB3i7LLfUKkRsJszvT=aT2Bhnf245n9mUf5Ter-61CC04b5ZqA@mail.gmail.com">
<meta http-equiv="content-type" content="text/html; charset=UTF-8">
<div dir="auto">Point of interest ... there's actually a special
tool for removing the pump.
<div dir="auto">I think I've only ever used it once!!</div>
<div dir="auto"><br>
</div>
<div dir="auto"><br>
</div>
</div>
<br>
<div class="gmail_quote">
<div dir="ltr" class="gmail_attr">On Tue., Jun. 20, 2023, 11:48
a.m. Bob Spidell, <<a href="mailto:bspidell@comcast.net";
moz-do-not-send="true"
class="moz-txt-link-freetext">bspidell@comcast.net</a>>
wrote:<br>
</div>
<blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0 0 0
.8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex">
<div> re: "Now the oil pump. This is not simply held in place
by the 2 screws. It is an interference fit and needs to be
pulled out with a 7/16 - 20 bolt - actually a couple of
varying lengths makes it easier. Also a selection of large
washers and spacers are required. To ensure that it does not
twist on you you need some longer about 1/12 in 8-32 screws
that replace the shorter ones mentioned. Also the NR valve
MUST be removed and this in turn implies that the hydraulic
cover and large accumulator spring is out. Furthermore the
pump has to be fitted in the correct orientation. I try to
make a mark but easy to get it wrong if lying on your back.
Damage can be done inserting it the wrong way around."<br>
<br>
<br>
Roger,<br>
<br>
Thanks for the correction. I watched the process from a
distance so missed many of the details (plus, it was 6-7
years ago). <br>
<br>
Bob<br>
<br>
<br>
<div>On 6/20/2023 8:42 AM, Roger Grace wrote:<br>
</div>
<blockquote type="cite">
<div dir="ltr">
<div>A few minor corrections ...</div>
<div>Yes MS is correct there is simply no substitute for
having a spare shaft - I try to say goodnight to mine
every evening !</div>
<div>I have made his special tool and can confirm it
does work.</div>
<div>However it does imply that the OD is open between
the adaptor flange and the OD.</div>
<div>I also use the wire/twine technique.<br>
</div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div>Now the oil pump. This is not simply held in place
by the 2 screws. It is an interference fit and needs
to be pulled out with a 7/16 - 20 bolt - actually a
couple of varying lengths makes it easier. Also a
selection of large washers and spacers are required.
To ensure that it does not twist on you you need some
longer about 1/12 in 8-32 screws that replace the
shorter ones mentioned. Also the NR valve MUST be
removed and this in turn implies that the hydraulic
cover and large accumulator spring is out. Furthermore
the pump has to be fitted in the correct orientation.
I try to make a mark but easy to get it wrong if lying
on your back. Damage can be done inserting it the
wrong way around.</div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div>Nowadays I find it easier to assemble the complete
OD with the adapter plate already fitted to the OD.
You then don't have to fight with the release springs
as well as gasket goo and the oil pump spring
retention all together. Then use the dummy to do the
bl alignment after some careful threading to pull back
the pump spring. I have used this a few times lowering
onto the GB and also even on its side. Patience !<br>
</div>
<div>rg<br>
</div>
<div><br>
</div>
</div>
<br>
<div class="gmail_quote">
<div dir="ltr" class="gmail_attr">On Tue, Jun 20, 2023
at 5:03â?¯AM Michael Salter <<a
href="mailto:michaelsalter@gmail.com";
target="_blank" rel="noreferrer"
moz-do-not-send="true"
class="moz-txt-link-freetext">michaelsalter@gmail.com</a>>
wrote:<br>
</div>
<blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0px 0px
0px 0.8ex;border-left:1px solid
rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex">
<div dir="auto">Although one may be difficult to find
there is no substitute for a spare gearbox 3rd
motion shaft for this job.
<div dir="auto">The spare shaft is used to align all
the internals then, using my special tool to hold
the pump plunger retracted</div>
<div dir="auto"><a
href="https://precisionsportscar.com/laycock-de-normanville-overdrive-installation-tool/";
target="_blank" rel="noreferrer"
moz-do-not-send="true"
class="moz-txt-link-freetext">https://precisionsportscar.com/laycock-de-normanville-overdrive-installation-tool/</a></div>
<div dir="auto">Â it is a simple task to lower the
overdrive onto the gearbox. </div>
<div dir="auto"><br>
</div>
<div dir="auto">M</div>
</div>
<br>
<div class="gmail_quote">
<div dir="ltr" class="gmail_attr">On Mon., Jun. 19,
2023, 11:41 p.m. Bob Spidell, <<a
href="mailto:bspidell@comcast.net";
target="_blank" rel="noreferrer"
moz-do-not-send="true"
class="moz-txt-link-freetext">bspidell@comcast.net</a>>
wrote:<br>
</div>
<blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0px
0px 0px 0.8ex;border-left:1px solid
rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex">
<div> There is a bronze thrust washer that has to
be perfectly centered to get that last 3/4"
(#148 in this diagram):<br>
<br>
<a
href="https://mossmotors.com/ahy-041-overdrive-unit-bn2-thru-bj8";
rel="noreferrer noreferrer" target="_blank"
moz-do-not-send="true"
class="moz-txt-link-freetext">https://mossmotors.com/ahy-041-overdrive-unit-bn2-thru-bj8</a><br>
<br>
You can wiggle it around with a long
screwdriver, or use a suitable 'drift' to center
it. Your best bet is to sit the O/D on end and
lower the gearbox onto it; gently rotating the
gearbox while lowering. First time I did this I
must have got lucky, but danged if I can explain
this (see attached photo). Most recently I
fought for a couple days then threw in the towel
and took gearbox and O/D to BCS which,
fortunately, is only a half-hour away. David and
his mechanics had a novel technique I've not
heard described anywhere; basically, he removed
the pump completely--it's only two screws
IIRC--and split the O/D into front and rear
sections and tipped the gearbox and O/D
up--gearbox on bottom--then had two of his
mechanics pull the sections together with huge
channellock pliers while David rotated the
output shaft to 'feel it in' (you had to be
there).<br>
<br>
Good luck. Make triply sure you have the pump
cam oriented correctly, or you'll get more
experience with this process than you probably
want.<br>
<br>
bs<br>
<br>
<div>On 6/19/2023 6:18 PM, warthodson--- via
Healeys wrote:<br>
</div>
<blockquote type="cite">
<div style="font-family:Comic Sans
MS,sans-serif;font-size:16px">
<div dir="ltr">I spent the day assisting a
friend trying to mate his OD to his
transmission. The car is a '63 BJ7. The
overdrive & Trans. were pulled to
replace a few internal trans parts which
was done & we did not run into any
issues. We can get the OD to within
approx. 1/2-3/4" of mating to the trans,
but cannot close that gap. We have
confirmed that the oil pump roller has
been fully retracted. What are we bumping
up against & how do we get past it?</div>
<div dir="ltr">Gary Hodson</div>
</div>
<br>
</blockquote>
<br>
</div>
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