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Sorry I made a typo, the gaps should be 0,9mm and *_/2,3mm /_*instead of
the 2,8mm as stated in my first mail.
Kees Oudesluijs
Op 23-4-2023 om 11:58 schreef Kees Oudesluijs via Healeys:
> SU AUF301 or the later replacement AZX 1308.
>
> Keep the standard set up and repair the original unit but add a
> bidirectional diode (transil/TVS 18V or 19V peak) over the standard
> capacitor to further reduce arcing over the points. It is usually
> sufficient to sand the points using say 400 wet&dry until there are no
> or hardly any black spots visible and finish the surface with 1200
> wet&dry. Set the gaps at 0,9mm and 2,8mm. If the valves or valve seals
> do not leak leave them well alone. The same with the domed covers.
> When separating the coil housing from the pump body make sure you do
> not tear the thin white mylar layer of the three layer diaphragm. If
> the original diaphragm is intact keep it and do not use a modern
> replacement. I have rebuilt many pumps with diaphragms over 60 years
> old that are still in pristine condition. I have rebuild well over a
> hundred pumps and rarely see deteriorated diaphragms and the ones that
> are faulty usually had the thin mylar layer damaged. Carefully loosen
> the three layers, clean with brake cleaner and let dry thoroughly and
> apply some talcum powder very sparingly between the layers to reduce
> friction and binding.
>
> If the Bakelite top or the bridge is cracked or even broken you can
> easily fix that using Araldite or similar. The bridge can easily crack
> when the screws are turned down to tight.
>
> These pumps are utterly reliable when used regularly and can last well
> over 100.000 miles on a set of points and even then it usually suffice
> to polish them. When left for a considerable time in a not completely
> dry storage the points will corrode and fail, which means taking the
> points out, polishing and adjusting them properly.
> Even when buying a new points pump it might not work initially because
> of corrosion forming during storage. Before installing one should
> always run a bit rough carton followed by flower paper 1200 through
> the points!
>
> The pump on my Jensen-Healey, which is the same as on the A-H 3000,
> has done well over 250.000 miles since 1974 on two cars. It was not in
> use between 1985 and 2008 bar a yearly start up. I transplanted it
> from my first J-H to my present one (from the US) which had a modern
> pump installed when I bought it. Most parts are still original
> including the (re-polished) points but I did add a transil a few years
> ago and renewed the cork seal under the large dome as the cork was a
> bit crumbly.
>
> On various official SU sites you can find an excellent description of
> how to rebuild and set up these pumps. There are also some good
> recordings on You Tube however there are also some that are absolute
> crap and do not give any description of how to properly set up the pumps.
>
> When adjusting the diaphragm you should officially turn back the
> diaphragm 4 holes. It is sometimes necessary to turn back 5 or 6
> holes. Start with 4 and if the pump is not starting up part dismantle
> and turn another one or two holes.
>
> If need be the original points pumps can be repaired "en route". The
> solid state pumps cannot.
>
> The solid state SU pumps can be temperamental. Some last for ever
> without fail but others just give up or won't start up at all. They
> are also difficult to set up reliably if they need attention. The
> culprit seems to often be the small plastic bush in the coil housing
> that is meant to guide the shaft on the diaphragm. This bush can sink
> out of sight ending up near the diaphragm.
>
> The similar plastic replacement SS pumps from New Zealand under
> various brand names seem very reliable and cheap.
>
> Important is that you fit the pump in the car with the outlet facing
> upwards!!
>
> Some of you have fitted the AZX1307 which is for an MGB. It will work
> for normal driving but as its delivery pressure is lower than the
> AZX1308 it may not do for spirited driving. These two pumps are
> identical bar the conical spring on the diaphragm which determines the
> delivery pressure and the plastic cover with the vent on top.
>
> Kees Oudesluijs
>
>
>
> Op 23-4-2023 om 02:02 schreef healeymanjim via Healeys:
>> guy in our club has a BT7 whose fuel pump expired. he is wondering
>> about whether to replace with solid state or standard. wanted to know
>> what the wisdom of the group is on this subject.  2 of us in club
>> have solid state ones that refuse to work and just take up space in
>> the parts bin. also, he has a ten year old recored radiator that he
>> replaced with an aluminum one and also a steel transmission tunnel
>> cover that he would like to sell since they are now just taking up
>> space. no reasonable offer refused.
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation $12.75
>>
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>> http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
>>
>> Healeys@autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs@chello.nl
>>
>
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<p>Sorry I made a typo, the gaps should be 0,9mm and <b><u><i>2,3mm
</i></u></b>instead of the 2,8mm as stated in my first mail.</p>
<p>Kees Oudesluijs<br>
</p>
<div class="moz-cite-prefix">Op 23-4-2023 om 11:58 schreef Kees
Oudesluijs via Healeys:<br>
</div>
<blockquote type="cite"
cite="mid:49a7091c-2051-3ed5-b29b-33a5ad3a4b8e@chello.nl">SU
AUF301 or the later replacement AZX 1308.
<br>
<br>
Keep the standard set up and repair the original unit but add a
bidirectional diode (transil/TVS 18V or 19V peak) over the
standard capacitor to further reduce arcing over the points. It is
usually sufficient to sand the points using say 400 wet&dry
until there are no or hardly any black spots visible and finish
the surface with 1200 wet&dry. Set the gaps at 0,9mm and
2,8mm. If the valves or valve seals do not leak leave them well
alone. The same with the domed covers. When separating the coil
housing from the pump body make sure you do not tear the thin
white mylar layer of the three layer diaphragm. If the original
diaphragm is intact keep it and do not use a modern replacement. I
have rebuilt many pumps with diaphragms over 60 years old that are
still in pristine condition. I have rebuild well over a hundred
pumps and rarely see deteriorated diaphragms and the ones that are
faulty usually had the thin mylar layer damaged. Carefully loosen
the three layers, clean with brake cleaner and let dry thoroughly
and apply some talcum powder very sparingly between the layers to
reduce friction and binding.
<br>
<br>
If the Bakelite top or the bridge is cracked or even broken you
can easily fix that using Araldite or similar. The bridge can
easily crack when the screws are turned down to tight.
<br>
<br>
These pumps are utterly reliable when used regularly and can last
well over 100.000 miles on a set of points and even then it
usually suffice to polish them. When left for a considerable time
in a not completely dry storage the points will corrode and fail,
which means taking the points out, polishing and adjusting them
properly.
<br>
Even when buying a new points pump it might not work initially
because of corrosion forming during storage. Before installing one
should always run a bit rough carton followed by flower paper 1200
through the points!
<br>
<br>
The pump on my Jensen-Healey, which is the same as on the A-H
3000, has done well over 250.000 miles since 1974 on two cars. It
was not in use between 1985 and 2008 bar a yearly start up. I
transplanted it from my first J-H to my present one (from the US)
which had a modern pump installed when I bought it. Most parts are
still original including the (re-polished) points but I did add a
transil a few years ago and renewed the cork seal under the large
dome as the cork was a bit crumbly.
<br>
<br>
On various official SU sites you can find an excellent description
of how to rebuild and set up these pumps. There are also some good
recordings on You Tube however there are also some that are
absolute crap and do not give any description of how to properly
set up the pumps.
<br>
<br>
When adjusting the diaphragm you should officially turn back the
diaphragm 4 holes. It is sometimes necessary to turn back 5 or 6
holes. Start with 4 and if the pump is not starting up part
dismantle and turn another one or two holes.
<br>
<br>
If need be the original points pumps can be repaired "en route".
The solid state pumps cannot.
<br>
<br>
The solid state SU pumps can be temperamental. Some last for ever
without fail but others just give up or won't start up at all.
They are also difficult to set up reliably if they need attention.
The culprit seems to often be the small plastic bush in the coil
housing that is meant to guide the shaft on the diaphragm. This
bush can sink out of sight ending up near the diaphragm.
<br>
<br>
The similar plastic replacement SS pumps from New Zealand under
various brand names seem very reliable and cheap.
<br>
<br>
Important is that you fit the pump in the car with the outlet
facing upwards!!
<br>
<br>
Some of you have fitted the AZX1307 which is for an MGB. It will
work for normal driving but as its delivery pressure is lower than
the AZX1308 it may not do for spirited driving. These two pumps
are identical bar the conical spring on the diaphragm which
determines the delivery pressure and the plastic cover with the
vent on top.
<br>
<br>
Kees Oudesluijs
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
Op 23-4-2023 om 02:02 schreef healeymanjim via Healeys:
<br>
<blockquote type="cite">guy in our club has a BT7 whose fuel pump
expired. he is wondering about whether to replace with solid
state or standard. wanted to know what the wisdom of the group
is on this subject.  2 of us in club have solid state ones that
refuse to work and just take up space in the parts bin. also,
he has a ten year old recored radiator that he replaced with an
aluminum one and also a steel transmission tunnel cover that he
would like to sell since they are now just taking up space. no
reasonable offer refused.
<br>
_______________________________________________
<br>
Support Team.Net <a class="moz-txt-link-freetext"
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