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Great idea, Roger! I bought an alignment kit with a similar inclinometer.
Bob
On 4/2/2021 9:06 AM, Roger Grace wrote:
> Bob - just for interest.
> Your large caliper (that I don't have)Â idea got me thinking and
> remembering that I have one of those digital inclinometer angle boxes
> that I use to set up my saw.
> The spec. claims 0.1 deg accuracy and it is spot on when comparing to
> an engineering square.
> So I used this as shown in the photos to set the shoe at 90 deg to the
> hub (not backplate)
> The 0.1 deg error translates into 4 thou at the edge of the 2.25 in
> width shoe.
> rg
>
>
>
> <http://www.avg.com/email-signature?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=webmail>
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>
>
> On Wed, Mar 31, 2021 at 7:31 PM Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net
>
> I think centering the shoes with the brakes applied works well,
> but only with new/freshly turned drums and shoes. If the shoes
> aren't centered they will wear uneven, and lock up uneven.
>
> The best idea I've come up with is to use a large caliper--not
> easy/cheap to find--and make sure the shoes are square to each
> other. If they are, they should be orthogonal to the backplate.
>
> Bob
>
> On 3/31/2021 10:58 AM, Michael Salter wrote:
>> Obviously the quality of the felt being used is not
>> satisfactory. I've got a pair of BN1 rear brakes here that still
>> have the felts in place and are still greasy.
>> I don't believe eliminating metat to metal is the intent ... just
>> to provide sufficient lubrication to eliminate squeaks.
>>
>> M
>>
>> On Wed., Mar. 31, 2021, 11:47 a.m. Roger Grace via Healeys,
>>
>> Bob,
>> Yes agree about the felt bushes. I assume that their only
>> function is to prevent metal to metal contact ?
>> So do the fibre tubes protrude slightly beyond the end of the
>> pegs ?
>> Will try to locate something suitable.
>>
>> Wonder how you adjust these pegs ?
>> There seems to be 3 different techniques:
>>
>> The Moss method with chalk marks on the shoes.
>>
>> The Salter method by adjusting in/out to each shoe edge then
>> setting to the mid point.
>>
>> The usual method - centering the shoes (by stomping on the
>> brakes) then adjusting the peg to just make contact while
>> shoes are clamped.
>>
>> I tend to favour the last method .... ?
>>
>> Tkx
>> rg
>>
>>
>
>
> <http://www.avg.com/email-signature?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=webmail>
>
> Virus-free. www.avg.com
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>
>
>
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Great idea, Roger! I bought an alignment kit with a similar
inclinometer.<br>
<br>
Bob<br>
<br>
<br>
<div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 4/2/2021 9:06 AM, Roger Grace wrote:<br>
</div>
<blockquote type="cite"
cite="mid:CALPtYiNnYPMzGOv2k4ADv3wni4vjgBWQf-GHtW1iyishh0zAOg@mail.gmail.com">
<meta http-equiv="content-type" content="text/html; charset=UTF-8">
<div dir="ltr">
<div>Bob - just for interest.<br>
</div>
<div>Your large caliper (that I don't have)Â idea got me
thinking and remembering that I have one of those digital
inclinometer angle boxes that I use to set up my saw.</div>
<div>The spec. claims 0.1 deg accuracy and it is spot on when
comparing to an engineering square.</div>
<div>So I used this as shown in the photos to set the shoe at 90
deg to the hub (not backplate)<br>
</div>
<div>The 0.1 deg error translates into 4 thou at the edge of the
2.25 in width shoe.</div>
<div>rg<br>
</div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div
id="m_-7669012680146910556m_-3776431408075102407m_1361073115451807287m_-5172995836679361624m_-4484756418943175278DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2"><br>
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<br>
<div class="gmail_quote">
<div dir="ltr" class="gmail_attr">On Wed, Mar 31, 2021 at 7:31
PM Bob Spidell <<a href="mailto:bspidell@comcast.net"
target="_blank"
moz-do-not-send="true">bspidell@comcast.net</a>>
wrote:<br>
</div>
<blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0px 0px 0px
0.8ex;border-left:1px solid
rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex">
<div> I think centering the shoes with the brakes applied
works well, but only with new/freshly turned drums and
shoes. If the shoes aren't centered they will wear uneven,
and lock up uneven.<br>
<br>
The best idea I've come up with is to use a large
caliper--not easy/cheap to find--and make sure the shoes
are square to each other. If they are, they should be
orthogonal to the backplate.<br>
<br>
Bob<br>
<br>
<div>On 3/31/2021 10:58 AM, Michael Salter wrote:<br>
</div>
<blockquote type="cite">
<div dir="auto">Obviously the quality of the felt being
used is not satisfactory. I've got a pair of BN1 rear
brakes here that still have the felts in place and are
still greasy.Â
<div dir="auto">I don't believe eliminating metat to
metal is the intent ... just to provide sufficient
lubrication to eliminate squeaks.</div>
<div dir="auto"><br>
</div>
<div dir="auto">M</div>
</div>
<br>
<div class="gmail_quote">
<div dir="ltr" class="gmail_attr">On Wed., Mar. 31,
2021, 11:47 a.m. Roger Grace via Healeys, <<a
href="mailto:healeys@autox.team.net"
target="_blank"
moz-do-not-send="true">healeys@autox.team.net</a>>
wrote:<br>
</div>
<blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0px 0px
0px 0.8ex;border-left:1px solid
rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex">
<div dir="ltr">
<div>Bob,</div>
<div>Yes agree about the felt bushes. I assume
that their only function is to prevent metal to
metal contact ?</div>
<div>So do the fibre tubes protrude slightly
beyond the end of the pegs ?</div>
<div>Will try to locate something suitable.</div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div>Wonder how you adjust these pegs ?</div>
<div>There seems to be 3 different techniques:</div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div>The Moss method with chalk marks on the
shoes. <br>
</div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div>The Salter method by adjusting in/out to each
shoe edge then setting to the mid point.</div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div>The usual method - centering the shoes (by
stomping on the brakes) then adjusting the peg
to just make contact while shoes are clamped.</div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div>I tend to favour the last method .... ?<br>
</div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div>Tkx</div>
<div>rg<br>
</div>
<div><br>
</div>
<br>
</div>
</blockquote>
</div>
</blockquote>
<br>
</div>
</blockquote>
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</blockquote>
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