Ingress of water is mainly from condensation in the brake fluid
reservoir during storage and/or in periods of high humidity. You cannot
avoid it.
Kees Oudesluijs
Op 23-7-2018 om 15:24 schreef warthodson at aol.com:
> I prefer silicone brake fluid because it does not absorb water & it
> does not affect paint & does not require frequent replacement. If you
> have an ingress of water you already have a problem regardless of
> which fluid type you are using! If the water separates out, like you
> describe, you could simply expel it by bleeding the system. After you
> fix the source of the leak, of course.
> Gary
>
> Forget the silicone brake fluid (DOT 5) for normal use. If there
> is water ingress it will separate out on the lower parts i.e.
> wheel cylinders and can cause havoc. Use conventional DOT4 or 5.1
> and replace every 2 years.
> I replace my engine, gearbox and rear axle oil every year and at
> the same time all other fluids: brake fluid and coolant (blue/green).
>
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Kees Oudesluijs <coudesluijs at chello.nl>
> To: healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Mon, Jul 23, 2018 4:15 am
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Brake line
>
> Stainless steel brake lines are not always recommended. Some claim the
> s-s lines can fatigue crack. It is also hard to bend and flare.
> Supposedly best are Cunifer brake lines. Marine grade material first
> used in brake systems by Volvo in the 70?s I think. They are tough and
> do not corrode like the steel lines do. They are fit and forget.
> You can get complete made up sets, however they are usually packed in
> a roll and you have to bend the pipes yourself, but the lines are cut
> to the correct length, flares are already made up and the correct
> fittings already fitted.. The bending can be done by hand easily but
> ideally you need a bottle/pipe/tin/wheel/wood block with the right
> curve to prevent kinking. If you are very careful all can be done free
> hand.
> Copper lines are also offered, but generally not recommended as copper
> may harden, get brittle and fatigue crack. Very easy to bend and make
> up flares though.
> Forget the silicone brake fluid (DOT 5) for normal use. If there is
> water ingress it will separate out on the lower parts i.e. wheel
> cylinders and can cause havoc. Use conventional DOT4 or 5.1 and
> replace every 2 years.
> I replace my engine, gearbox and rear axle oil every year and at the
> same time all other fluids: brake fluid and coolant (blue/green).
>
> Kees Oudesluijs
>
>
>
> Op 23-7-2018 om 08:20 schreef John Spaur:
>
> Pipe bending is an art ?--and switch to stainless (If you decide
> to use stainless steel be prepared for it. The flaring tools are
> different! Single flares, you can succeed most of the time but
> quality control is difficult. Double flares, maybe once or twice
> if you are lucky until the tool breaks. The best advice it don?t
> use SS unless you have the right tools or have a shop flare the
> lines. You should also install copper cone washers between the SS
> flare and the brake line seat. It prevents galling of the seat.
> Oh? the washers are hard to find and hard to install; but you can
> make them.)
> I bent the SS lines for my BT7 and then had a local brake
> wholesale supply shop flare the lines. I don?t recall what I paid
> but it was not expensive and it was in and out the same day.
> John Spaur
> ?62 BT7
>
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