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Hi Bob,
The issue with Healey rod bolts with the silly pin setup is you can't just g=
o and buy better replacement modern fasteners like you can on e.g. a Sprite.=
So you either find low mileage ones and test for stretch; buy new ones for $=
US 180 plus freight https://www.ahspares.co.uk/austin-healey/big-healey/Engi=
ne-6-Cylinder-ENG595-to-ENG680/BOLT-big-end.aspx or=20
Rework the rod to take a better, different bolt setup. Or buy aftermarket ro=
ds.=20
I used very low mileage sedan bolts 18 years ago because new ones weren't av=
ailable.=20
In your case Bill, I'd just buy new standard ones.=20
Main studs you can buy new ARP for $US 50 bucks, so that's a no brainer. Sam=
e with head studs - you just need to measure what you've got and find the eq=
uivelent ones on an ARP reseller website. About another $120 or so.=20
If an engine is on its 3rd rebuild, and has done 200k, I'd replace all the f=
asteners. They're probably too stretched. Another $300 odd now, will be chea=
p if an old one breaks....
Best
Chris
Sent from my iPhone
> On 25 Sep 2016, at 9:31 AM, i erbs <eyera3000@gmail.com> wrote:
>=20
> I would not reuse Rod bolts. No opinion on the others.
>=20
> Ira Erbs
> 1959 100-6
> MKI engine and disc brakes
> Portland,OR
>=20
>=20
>> On Sep 24, 2016 1:40 PM, "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@comcast.net> wrote:
>> Engine rebuild in progress; wondering which, if any, bolts and studs need=
to be replaced. Car is a BJ8, with almost 200K miles and (at least) two en=
gine rebuilds. No issues besides low compression--attributed to leaky valve=
s and rings--so, I'm wondering, can I reuse head and main studs, and rod bol=
ts? This will be a mostly stock rebuild, with a slightly hotter cam (DWR1).=
>>=20
>> Not trying to pinch pennies, but don't want to overbuild, either. Though=
ts?
>>=20
>> TIA,
>>=20
>> Bob
>>=20
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<html><head><meta http-equiv=3D"content-type" content=3D"text/html; charset=3D=
utf-8"></head><body dir=3D"auto"><div>Hi Bob,</div><div>The issue with Heale=
y rod bolts with the silly pin setup is you can't just go and buy better rep=
lacement modern fasteners like you can on e.g. a Sprite. So you either find l=
ow mileage ones and test for stretch; buy new ones for $US 180 plus freight <=
a href=3D"https://www.ahspares.co.uk/austin-healey/big-healey/Engine-6-Cylin=
der-ENG595-to-ENG680/BOLT-big-end.aspx">https://www.ahspares.co.uk/austin-he=
aley/big-healey/Engine-6-Cylinder-ENG595-to-ENG680/BOLT-big-end.aspx</a> or&=
nbsp;<br>Rework the rod to take a better, different bolt setup. Or buy after=
market rods. </div><div>I used very low mileage sedan bolts 18 years ag=
o because new ones weren't available. </div><div>In your case Bill, I'd=
just buy new standard ones. </div><div>Main studs you can buy new ARP f=
or $US 50 bucks, so that's a no brainer. Same with head studs - you just nee=
d to measure what you've got and find the equivelent ones on an ARP reseller=
website. About another $120 or so. </div><div>If an engine is on its 3=
rd rebuild, and has done 200k, I'd replace all the fasteners. They're probab=
ly too stretched. Another $300 odd now, will be cheap if an old one breaks..=
..</div><div> Best</div><div>Chris</div><div><br><div>Sent from my iPho=
ne</div></div><div><br>On 25 Sep 2016, at 9:31 AM, i erbs <<a href=3D"mai=
lto:eyera3000@gmail.com">eyera3000@gmail.com</a>> wrote:<br><br></div><bl=
ockquote type=3D"cite"><p dir=3D"ltr">I would not reuse Rod bolts. No opinio=
n on the others.</p>
<p dir=3D"ltr">Ira Erbs<br>
1959 100-6<br>
MKI engine and disc brakes<br>
Portland,OR</p>
<div class=3D"gmail_extra"><br><div class=3D"gmail_quote">On Sep 24, 2016 1:=
40 PM, "Bob Spidell" <<a href=3D"mailto:bspidell@comcast.net";>bspidell@co=
mcast.net</a>> wrote:<br type=3D"attribution"><blockquote class=3D"gmail_=
quote" style=3D"margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1e=
x">Engine rebuild in progress; wondering which, if any, bolts and studs need=
to be replaced. Car is a BJ8, with almost 200K miles and (at least) t=
wo engine rebuilds. No issues besides low compression--attributed to l=
eaky valves and rings--so, I'm wondering, can I reuse head and main studs, a=
nd rod bolts? This will be a mostly stock rebuild, with a slightly hot=
ter cam (DWR1).<br>
<br>
Not trying to pinch pennies, but don't want to overbuild, either. Thou=
ghts?<br>
<br>
TIA,<br>
<br>
Bob<br><br></blockquote></div></div></blockquote></body></html>=
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