I got my 56 100 BN2 about 7 years ago and embarked on a full-on restoration in
2006. A restoration of this car was started in the late 80's by the previous
owner but never finished. Bodywork was poorly done but the engine was
reportedly rebuild.
When I got the car I checked the engine and took off the head. I found new
pistons and just honing marks, so the engine had not run a lot. After
rebuilding the carbs and distributor and with help from a friend the engine
started on first try (we were in shock) and ran perfectly. We ran the engine
a couple times for a couple minutes, fine tuning gaps, carbs and timing. Too
bad I didn't have compression gauges or a leak down tester so I didn't get a
reading. There was no oil pressure gauge in the car either.
Fast forward 6 years, I am close to finishing up the rolling chassis and I
have a few engine related questions. I am refurbishing a couple parts on the
engine: new gaskets, a new timing chain, modern seal timing cover,... I
rebuild the water pump and I am installing a modern stainless flexible oil
delivery pipe.
How does the flexible oil pipe fittings seal with the block or pump housing?
Just with the threads of the couplings? Do I need to use a sealant here?
Soon enough I hope, I will be running the engine. My current plan is to drop
the engine/gearbox in the car, start the engine without plugs until I see oil
pressure on the gauge, then let it run till it's warmed up and get compression
readings and do a leak down test. Any recommendations regarding startup
procedure giving the fact that it might not have run in properly?
I am unsure what pistons and cam I have in the engine currently. The pistons
have a shallow dish, I din't actually measure the dish and will only be able
to do so if/when I take the head off again. I can take a photo of the
underside of the pistons before I put the oil sump back on. Would it be
possible to identify the pistons based on photos? If so I'll post them
online.
Bert
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