Bert--
You don't need and should not use any sealants with the oil pump line. The
AN threads/fittings are designed to seal on tightening. BTW not all of
these oil lines are created equally: After my original copper line broke
at the block end (luckily I just happened to have my eye on the OP guage,
saw the needle fall and shut down in time to prevent catastrophic damage) I
ordered one through a major Healey parts supplier. They sent me one that
did not have swivel fittings at both ends and installation was not easy.
The DW pipes have swivels at both ends.
If the engine was not run in properly--which I would define as 20-30
minutes of continuous running at 2500 or so RPM's with oil containing high
levels of ZDDP--there is not much you can do about it now, as whatever wear
that took place to the tappets and cam surfaces is irreversible. So I
would simply hope for the best and pretend you are starting out from
scratch. If the cam/lifters go south they will do so in pretty short order
and you'll see it in the tappet clearances and general flat performance.
Run it in, drain the oil and change the filter and let us know how it goes.
Best--Michael Oritt
On Sat, Nov 26, 2011 at 5:27 PM, Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net> wrote:
> We put the flex oil pipe in our BN2/100M. I seem to (barely) recall there
> were some washers on the (AN-style) fittings; if not, I had no concern the
> line wouldn't seal with whatever came with the line (it's the Denis Welch
> product). We have excellent oil pressure.
>
> 100 pistons are dished, the higher-compression 100M pistons have a wider
> flat ring around the edge. Yes, someone can probably tell from photos if
> the pistons look correct. If your engine ran well before I'd just go with
> that until you have a real reason to dismantle the engine (you will, sooner
> or later).
>
> Before you start again, I'd put one of the ZDDP additives in the oil. It
> sounds like you may not have run enough to bed in the cam and lifters; next
> time you start let the engine run at about 2,000RPM for about 15 min. to
> finish bedding in the cam.
>
>
> Bob
>
>
> --------------------------------
> Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA
>
> ----- Original Message -----
>
>
> I got my 56 100 BN2 about 7 years ago and embarked on a full-on
> restoration in
> 2006. A restoration of this car was started in the late 80's by the
> previous
> owner but never finished. Bodywork was poorly done but the engine was
> reportedly rebuild.
> When I got the car I checked the engine and took off the head. I found new
> pistons and just honing marks, so the engine had not run a lot. After
> rebuilding the carbs and distributor and with help from a friend the engine
> started on first try (we were in shock) and ran perfectly. We ran the
> engine
> a couple times for a couple minutes, fine tuning gaps, carbs and timing.
> Too
> bad I didn't have compression gauges or a leak down tester so I didn't get
> a
> reading. There was no oil pressure gauge in the car either.
> Fast forward 6 years, I am close to finishing up the rolling chassis and I
> have a few engine related questions. I am refurbishing a couple parts on
> the
> engine: new gaskets, a new timing chain, modern seal timing cover,... I
> rebuild the water pump and I am installing a modern stainless flexible oil
> delivery pipe.
> How does the flexible oil pipe fittings seal with the block or pump
> housing?
> Just with the threads of the couplings? Do I need to use a sealant here?
> Soon enough I hope, I will be running the engine. My current plan is to
> drop
> the engine/gearbox in the car, start the engine without plugs until I see
> oil
> pressure on the gauge, then let it run till it's warmed up and get
> compression
> readings and do a leak down test. Any recommendations regarding startup
> procedure giving the fact that it might not have run in properly?
> I am unsure what pistons and cam I have in the engine currently. The
> pistons
> have a shallow dish, I din't actually measure the dish and will only be
> able
> to do so if/when I take the head off again. I can take a photo of the
> underside of the pistons before I put the oil sump back on. Would it be
> possible to identify the pistons based on photos? If so I'll post them
> online.
>
> Bert
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bspidell@comcast.net
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michael.oritt@gmail.com
_______________________________________________
Healeys@autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
|