If available it may be worth to replace the springs with parabolics
(single leaf), usually slightly softer but no corrosion or wear between
the leaves. Replace all pins, bolts, nuts, bushes, U-clamps etc. as a
matter of course and fit using plenty of cupaslip.
Kees Oudesluijs
NL
John Harper schreef:
> Steve
>
> Some of what I am about to say may repeat what others have said.
>
> I don't know about suppliers but here are a few points to watch out
> for when changing rear springs.
>
> If it is a long time since these were removed then the front pins may
> well be stuck solid in the silentbloc inner sleeve. Even if you
> release the tab and try to turn the pin then the whole inner sleeve
> will usually turn in the rubber. It is very difficult to get anything
> in place to drive the pin out and in any case it is easy to damage the
> chassis if one is over enthusiastic.
>
> The technique that I have used is to use a one ended blade power Sabre
> Saw and cut through the pin both sides of the spring. It is worth
> getting close to the spring leaves so that one cuts through both the
> pin and the ends of the protruding silentbloc inner sleeve. Once the
> main spring is out the remaining parts are easily dealt with.
>
> Obviously you will need new silentblocs if these do not come already
> fitted to the new springs but you would replace these anyway. You will
> also need replacement pins.
>
> Regards
>
>>
>> On the way to Conclave, I broke the upper leaf of my right rear spring.
>> Since the car already had a 1" sag to the driver's side, I guess it's
>> time
>> to replace the rear springs.
>>
>> Moss has a suspension sale going on for another week. Is there any
>> reason
>> not to buy the springs from Moss? What other parts are normally changed
>> during a spring change?
>>
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>17:59:00
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