No one as yet has mentioned sleeving the cylinders which is as good or
better a choice as buying new ones. If you have an aluminum cylinder
and a steel piston you then have a dissimilar metals condition which
could seize the piston in the cylinder, especially in a hobby car that
doesn't get driven a lot even in the driving season and then sits all
winter. There are several companies that specialize in brass or
stainless steel sleeving which may also end up costing less than buying
new cylinders.
The companies that come to mind off the top of my head are White Post
(they are expensive and may insist on doing the entire rebuild in
addition to the sleeving, though their quality is unsurpassed), Sierra
(less expensive, I believe), and Apple Hydraulics (I've heard mixed
reviews on their work)
If I was doing it, I would at least check how the price of sleeving
compares to new.
Several years ago I had a lot of trouble with steel pistons in alum.
cylinders seizing. I bought new cylinders for the umpteenth time, got
them sleeved with brass and never had a problem again.
Charlie Baldwin
Alan Seigrist wrote:
>Mitch -
>
>If there is any pitting or scoring on the bore of the slave or master, you
>have no choice but to replace it.
>
>Rebuilding these units is very easy, very straightforward, but for my money
>I'm a big fan of just replacing them with new units, they generally last
>much longer than just rebuilding an old unit. I've had rebuilt units on my
>BJ8 now for 15 years, no leaking still.
>
>If you don't want any ordeal just go with new. You can order from anyone,
>Moss, AH Spares, British Car specialists... all of them sell the same
>Girling units... good quality.
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