Bruce
I don't think you should do it that way. Using a long bolt and nut on top of
the frame will squeeze the frame, and you will not be able to tighten it
enough until the frame top and bottom are completely squeezed together. It
would be possible to use a long bolt, but only if you install it in a pipe
inside the frame. In which case you will have to open the frame and do some
welding anyway. Better then to do it the proper and original way.
I've just done it on my car, not too difficult. One captive nut was gone,
and there was a big hole instead. I cut the hole a little more, made a
replacement plate with a captive nut in the right place, and welded this
assembly in the hole. I have also made two reinforcement steel plates (3 mm
thick) that go between the frame and the anti roll bar mounts, because I
noted that the frame had been somewhat damaged by the anti roll bar mounts.
I'm sure this will work for the rest of the cars life.
Best regards, Per
-----Ursprungligt meddelande-----
Fren: owner-healeys@Autox.Team.Net [mailto:owner-healeys@Autox.Team.Net] Fvr
Healey Bruce
Skickat: den 21 december 2006 06:08
Till: Healey Mail Group
Dmne: Anti-sway bar mounting final solution
Thanks to those who shared their opinions and experiences on the stripped
captive nut on my anti-sway bar mount. After carefully weighing the cost of
the helicoil kit ($45) versus a 3 inch 5/16 24 bolt ($1.45 with ny-lock nut
and washers), the 3 inch bolt won. Sorry to say, but cutting out and
welding in a new bottom piece was an easy rule-out; I didn't even want to
think about the cost of that. I guess this is one advantage of not having a
concours car . . . So please, if you see me at a show, don't point out a
bolt sticking through my right frame way up in front to the judges ;-)
Bruce Steele
1960 BN7
Brea, CA
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