Mark -
The T studs are mounted from inside the car, so you have to drill holes in
the bottom of your floorplan to place them correctly like they did at the
factory.
In general, if you don't want to weld them, you can simply use JB Weld on
them and that will hold just as well as a weld tac... JB Weld may actually
be better because a weld tac may invite rust over time. The main thing is
they need to be fixed somehow so that when you tighten and untighten the
nuts, it screws on and off easily. I would highly suggest using anti-seize
on the nuts to keep them from rusting on the T bolts.
I wouldn't worry about heat coming up the bolts.... very little heat will
get through here. I would recommend putting some dynamat down on this side
(inside the car) however. For extra protection you should sandwich some
heat insulation material between the original asbestos style sheet and the
floor board. The main problem with heat in a healey comes from the gaps in
the fire wall an tranny tunnel, make sure there are no air leaks in this
area when re-assembling your car.
Alan
'52 A90
'53 BN1
'64 BJ8
On 8/21/06, Mark and Kathy <mgtrcars@galaxyinternet.net> wrote:
>
> I intend to install a drivers side floor exhaust insulation panel but I'm
> not
> sure how the fixing studs are attached. I did purchase the correct
> studs
> from Brit. Car Spec. and I have the panel to put on, but my car didn't
> originally have this panel so I am clueless.
>
> #1 I don't weld. Can I attach these flat head studs from either the
> inside
> or
> outside with JB weld and hope it holds.
>
> #2 If I do install these from the inside of the car by drilling holes
> in
> the floor is that defeating the purpose cause the heat
> may travel up the studs to the inside of the car anyway.
>
>
> Thanks, Mark
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