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Re: FW: spokes, nipples and rust

To: Ian.Harrison@csiro.au
Subject: Re: FW: spokes, nipples and rust
From: Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net>
Date: Wed, 12 Apr 2006 18:22:59 -0700
Ian,

re:
"Any other good ideas regarding spoke adjustment and wheel truing would
be great, before I muck it up!"


FWIW, a "pro" once told me to adjust the spokes on the outer bead of the 
rim
for wheel roundness, and adjust the spokes on the inner bead--i.e. the 
shorter
spokes--for runout.  This is counterintuitive to me, but he insisted 
that's the
way to do it.  Otherwise, if all the spokes are roughly the same 
tightness,  the
wheel is round and true within a 1/16" of an inch or better you've done 
about
as good a job as any.   Tighten the spokes until they ring when tapped with
a pen as you spin the wheel.  I recommend you get a spoke wrench ... they're
a little expensive ($15-20), but make the job easier and you're less 
likely to
round off a nipple.

The pro said he did his wheels just spinning the wheel on the car with 
an oil can
for a pointer.  You can build yourself a jig from an old hub and a stub 
axel, and
probably get pretty good at this (it ain't rocket science).


bs



Ian.Harrison@csiro.au wrote:

>Dear all,
>
>
>
>
>
>Does anyone have some good ideas regarding releasing spokes that are
>rusted to the nipples?
>
>
>
>Is it Ok to heat the nipples and quench with cold water? does heating
>effect the tensile strength of the spokes?
>
>
>
>Any other good ideas regarding spoke adjustment and wheel truing would
>be great, before I muck it up!
>
>
>
>Many thanks
>
>
>
>Ian
>
>
>  
>

-- 
***************************************************************
Bob Spidell         San Jose, CA        bspidell@comcast.net
'67 Austin-Healey 3000             '56 Austin-Healey 100M
***************************************************************




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