Are these boxes sealed? We got into ours from a BN2, and had to drill
out a couple spot welds.
After installing a new harness, the turn indicators didn't function
properly. 'Assuming' the problem was in the relay box, we opened it up
only to find out later the harness had a couple wires mislabeled (wrong
color/trace). This really pissed me off as otherwise I had the harness
wired 100% correct (not to mention 'violating' an original flasher box).
Bob
On 2/22/2017 8:04 AM, i erbs wrote:
> I don't have my air hoses in place yet, so It is a straight shot to
> the top nuts. My mechanic removed mine and cleaned and adjusted the
> internal points. It gets rusty in there. So Simon, you might take a
> look inside once you get it out and I would bet you will find rust and
> crud in there. Using a multi-meter you should be able to check the
> contacts.
>
> Ira Erbs
> Portland,OR
> _______ _______
> (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______)
> (_________________________)
> BT7 engine and disk brakes
>
> A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti
> Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words
>
> On Wed, Feb 22, 2017 at 7:21 AM, Bruce Steele
>
> Simon, I?ve had mine out twice, most recently last weekend when I
> replaced it while the engine is out for a rebuild (it was a lot
> easier to sit in the engine bay than reach over!). Using a long
> thin flat blade screwdriver, loosen the terminals one at a time.
> I was perhaps fortunate that my wires are basically ?trained? to
> lay in order so keeping them straight was not a problem, but if in
> doubt label them first. Ira?s right?seeing the color codes can be
> tricky unless everything is really clean! Remove the bottom
> screw last. Removing the top 2 screws is the problem as they are
> blocked by the air trunking. If there is no way to get to them
> from the front, and there probably isn?t, you can drill them out
> through the captive nuts in the wheel well. Yes, that ruins the
> nuts, but there is an easy solution to that. Before reinstalling
> the relay unit, put 2 U-type spring clip speed nuts on the flange
> over the outboard holes. Install the bottom machine screw to
> finger tight to hold the unit in place, then use 2 sheet metal
> screws through the drilled out nuts to secure the top. Or 1
> screw?I?m pretty sure 3 screws in that is overkill. You may have
> to move the unit slightly side to side to line up the holes, but
> it will work fine and is much easier than trying to go in from the
> front.
>
> Bruce Steele
>
> Brea, CA
>
> 1960 BN7
>
> *From:*Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net
> *Sent:* Tuesday, February 21, 2017 9:19 AM
> *To:* Simon Lachlan <simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk
> *Cc:* Pierre Henri Claret <yosmovies at hotmail.fr
> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] removing the 8-way flasher box
>
> try using a 1/4 drive ratchet and extension with a knuckle in
> between the extensions
>
> I would mark the wires in case the color coding is hard to read.
>
>
> Ira Erbs
>
> Portland,OR
>
> _______ _______
> (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______)
> (_________________________)
>
> BT7 engine and disk brakes
>
> A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti
>
> Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words
>
> On Tue, Feb 21, 2017 at 7:30 AM, Simon Lachlan
> <simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk
>
> My car is RHD so accessing that wretched thing is easy enough
> by Healey standards. Nothing much above it. However it seems
> that my nephew may have to remove his from his LHD ?64 BJ8. So
> the brake fluid reservoir is in the way, plus its pipework and
> the steering column?..or is that a bit lower?
>
> Anyhow, can one get the 8-way box out without a major
> kerfuffle or what does one have to do? Just grow tiny treble
> jointed wrists and elbows? The usual in fact?.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Simon
>
>
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