No ... I just couldn't get a straight shot to the nut with the impact
wrench to loosen it. Once it's loose it'll clear the crossmember; you
have to lift the engine to get the balancer/pulley off.
bs
On 2/12/2017 10:00 AM, Tom wrote:
>
> So, even if you manage to get the nut loose without lifting the
> engine, the nut will get stuck on the crossmember as you undo it?
>
> - Tom
>
>
> On Fri, Feb 10, 2017 at 8:06 PM, Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net
>
> Did this a couple years ago. You'll need to pull the radiator,
> detach the throttle shaft and the OD tie rod, and unbolt the
> engine mounts (at the bottom). Don't lift at the pan unless you're
> able to spread the load considerably.
>
> It's hard to get a good seal; you need to center the seal on the
> crankshaft before tightening the cover bolts. My engine rebuilder
> just pointed out to me that the bolt at about the 5:30 position is
> open to the crankcase; you'll want to use some sort of thread
> sealant on it. Unless your cover is perfectly flat you'll want to
> use some sort of sealant on the gasket.
>
> The nut on the crankshaft is a bitch to get off; IIRC it should
> have been torqued to 150lb-ft. You have to lift the engine enough
> for this nut, and whatever tool you use to free it, to clear the
> crossmember. I used a 3/4" impact wrench, and couldn't get the
> socket on straight and ended up mangling the nut pretty bad.
>
> Bob
>
>
> On 2/10/2017 2:30 PM, Charlie Schott wrote:
>> I have to replace the timing chain cover gasket on a 1967 BJ8.
>> Would someone please tell me how much I have to remove from the
>> engine to raise it high enough to remove the crankshaft pulley.
>> Thanks.
>> Regards,
>> Charlie
>>
>> *From:*Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net
>> *Sent:* Friday, February 10, 2017 12:47 PM
>> *To:* 'Healey List'
>> *Subject:* [Healeys] Fuel Gauge dampener
>>
>> Hi,
>>
>> I?d saved something relating to damping the fluctuations in my
>> fuel gauge. I don?t recall if it was originally posted here or if
>> I trawled it off the net. I?d made a few notes and filed it
>> appropriately against some day in the future when I might get
>> round to actually doing it.
>>
>> So, my nephew?s fuel gauge bounces around far more than mine and
>> this prompted me to dig out the article/notes.
>>
>> First off, I agree that there?s no sense in putting the capacitor
>> anywhere near the fuel tank.
>>
>> Having said that, I read the advice that I?d stored so carefully
>> and began to wonder if I?d understood it correctly.
>>
>> Is the capacitor really supposed to be wired across the two
>> terminals on the gauge? Would it have any effect? To put it
>> crudely, but in the language that I can understand, wouldn?t the
>> fluctuations still come down the Green/Black wire from the sender
>> unit and hit the gauge?s terminal T? And wouldn?t those
>> fluctuations still register as such on the gauge, totally
>> unaffected by the capacitor?
>>
>> Shouldn?t the capacitor be wired in such a fashion that the
>> fluctuations cannot bypass it?
>>
>> Maybe I?m over complicating things and should just try it without
>> understanding it. Maybe I think too much.
>>
>> Simon
>>
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