I have always thought that head gasket "sealant" was not to seal the gasket but
to act as a lubricant so to speak to allow the head and block to expand and
contract at their different rates and not shear the gasket. I also heard this
from Mr. Gasket tech department when I spoke with them. They test head gaskets
to destruction and they told me the best "sealant" they found was Permatex High
Tack in either spray or brush on. It took them more effort to destroy the
gaskets with this product than anything else they tested. I have used it
successfully on many engine builds. You can call their tech department and talk
with one of their people, they are very friendly.
Barry RosenbergBritish Car Service
On Monday, January 23, 2017 7:43 PM, Jack Wheeler via Fot <fot at
autox.team.net> wrote:
Hi Neil.? Since I retired from racing, I have built a couple of Triumph
engines, and am now working on an MGB engine.? On the first Triumph engine I
did, I used used the stock Triumph head gasket, with Gaskacinch sealant, which
I had used in the race car for 20 years or so.? Gaskacinca is an old regional
gasket cement found in the Midwest USA.? I had trouble getting it to seal, and
ended up with a combustion leak.? My machine shop guy recommended Cometic for
the head gasket, and Hylomar sealant.? So I tried that combination, and it
worked great.
I'm getting ready to use a Cometic head gasket on the MGB I am rebuilding, and
thought I would use Hylomar sealant.? Are you familiar with Cometic head
gaskets?? If so, what sealant would you recommend?? I have some Hylomar left
over from previous builds, but if you have something that is better, I'd like
to use that.? Do you ship to the US?? If so, how would I go about ordering your
Wellseal product?
Thanks for your help.
Jack Wheeler
From: Neil Revington <neil at revingtontr.com>
To: Paul Ricco <paulricco at att.net>; Jack Wheeler <jwheeler1947 at
yahoo.com>
Cc: Tony Drews <tony at tonydrews.com>; Joe Boruch <jaboruch at netzero.net>;
"fot at autox.team.net" <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, January 23, 2017 12:34 PM
Subject: RE: [Fot] TR3/4 Rear Main Seal
<!--#yiv7677791012 filtered {font-family:Wingdings;panose-1:5 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0
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3 2 4;}#yiv7677791012 filtered {font-family:"Helvetica Neue";}#yiv7677791012
p.yiv7677791012MsoNormal, #yiv7677791012 li.yiv7677791012MsoNormal,
#yiv7677791012 div.yiv7677791012MsoNormal
{margin:0cm;margin-bottom:.0001pt;font-size:12.0pt;font-family:"Times New
Roman", serif;}#yiv7677791012 a:link, #yiv7677791012
span.yiv7677791012MsoHyperlink
{color:blue;text-decoration:underline;}#yiv7677791012 a:visited, #yiv7677791012
span.yiv7677791012MsoHyperlinkFollowed
{color:purple;text-decoration:underline;}#yiv7677791012
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sans-serif;color:#1F497D;}#yiv7677791012 .yiv7677791012MsoChpDefault
{font-size:10.0pt;}#yiv7677791012 filtered {margin:72.0pt 72.0pt 72.0pt
72.0pt;}#yiv7677791012 div.yiv7677791012WordSection1 {}-->Hi Paul, Thanks for
copying me in on this. My only comment would be that Hylamar is not ideal as it
can ?ball off? and when that happens rubbery bits of goo end up in oil ways.
You should use the original product Wellseal
http://www.revingtontr.com/product/600569a/name/wellseal-jointing-compound-100ml
or the superior sealant Heldite
http://www.revingtontr.com/product/tdc5001-125/name/heldite-125ml-tin-with-applicator
or of course any other similar product. Anything by silicone sealant. ?
Cheers ? Neil Revington
Revington TR Ltd?
Thorngrove Barns,
Middlezoy,
Somerset, TA7 0PD.
England
( +44(0)1823 698437
Fax:- +44(0)1823 698109
-neil at revingtontr.com
web: www.revingtontr.com Every part you need for your TR, new or second hand,
standard or improved. Connect with Revington TR: ???? ? Suppliers of Standard
and uprated parts to?TR enthusiasts ? From: Paul Ricco [mailto:paulricco at
att.net]
Sent: 21 January 2017 18:29
To: Jack Wheeler <jwheeler1947 at yahoo.com>
Cc: Tony Drews <tony at tonydrews.com>; Joe Boruch <jaboruch at netzero.net>;
fot at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Fot] TR3/4 Rear Main Seal ? We have some experience with rear
main seal issues on our TR4 race motor. ?When we purchased our car, all of the
cranks that were included had already been machined and the scroll removed. ?We
have been able seal the engines successfully with careful preparation using
these cranks and we have been happy with the results. ?Here is what we learned:
? 1. ?The Revington Seal Kit does work very well when it is installed
properly. ?It is good product. ? ? 2. ?There are a lot of cranks floating
around that had the scroll removed, but they were not machined to the correct
size for the seal kit. ?We have found some that have been machined too small
and one that was too large. ?Too large was just as big a problem, because the
seal could not close all the way around the crank causing a leak with the oil
pressures that we run. ? 3. ?The aluminum seal housings are often not
installed and sealed correctly. ?The problem is further compounded by the felt
seal not being completely sealed when the rear main bearing cap is installed.
?We use 1 inch pieces of the felt soaked in Permatex Aviation Sealer and pack
them in tight. ?It is messy, ?but seams to work well. ? 4. ?Measure your crank
seal surface very carefully. ?If it is too small or too large, the seal will
not work correctly. ?Both issues can be corrected. ?Have a good machine shop
read the instructions and help you get the crank prepped per the instructions
that come with the seal kit. ? 5. ?Make sure that the machine shop leaves the
correct radius corner when they machine the scroll off. ? 6. ?Follow the
instructions that Revington includes in his kit to the letter, and the seal
will work great in racing applications. ? 7. ?I will only use replacement
seals for our housings that are purchased directly from Revington TR. ?I have
been told that another vendor tried to have some produced and they may not be
the correct size and specification for the Revington housing. ?Going to
Revington TR for the replacements solves that issue. ? 8. ?Choose the sealant
that you use for the housing very carefully. ?We have had very good success
with Hylomar. ?There may be other good choices but that has worked for us. ?
Hope some of this helps and best of luck getting the motor sealed up. ? Paul
Ricco TR4 Blue #4 ?
Sent from my iPad
On Jan 21, 2017, at 9:43 AM, Jack Wheeler via Fot <fot at autox.team.net>
wrote:
Before the Viton seal became available, I used a couple of different approaches
to keeping the crankcase sealed at 7,000 RPM's, both involved machining off the
scrolling from the rear of the crankshaft.? The first was to use a rope seal,
like the E-Type Jaguar.? I took the dimension off the Jag crank, then machined
the Triumph crank to the same OD.? I used the stock Triumph aluminum seal to
hold the rope seal in place.
My next attempt was a big block Chevy, 2 part neoprene seal.? Again, I
machined the Triumph crank surface where the seal rides to the same OD as the
Big Block Chevy Crank.? Then I machined a two part aluminum retainer, similar
to the stock Triumph rear seal, but with the inside machined to hold the Chevy
seal in place.? I think there was a kit available at one time, were you could
buy the seal, and the adapter that holds it in place (Moss (?) or someone like
that had made up the same aluminum adapter that I had, and were selling it as a
kit).? Anyway, this worked pretty well as long as you got the Chevy seal well
centered around the crankshaft.
You might go to a junk yard (or speed shop) and find out what the dimension of
the big block Chevy crank is, at the point where the rear seal rides against
the crank.? If your cranks can be machined to this diameter, then see if you
can find one of the old Moss conversion kits.? When I sold my race car to Don
Marshall (#11 EP TR-4A - Runoffs winner 1990), there were 2 or 3 of these seal
adapters that went with it.? If you can track it down, see if one of these seal
adapters is available (out of an engine), and could be used as a sample to have
one machined.? Or, you could do like I did.? Buy the big block Chevy seal, and
use it as a template, along with a stock Triumph rear seal, to figure the
dimensions needed to machine a two part adapter.? This may seem like a lot of
work, but if your cranks are good, it might be cheaper than getting a new
crank, especially if you have good machining capability available.
Good luck, and let me know what you decide.
Jack
? From: Tony Drews via Fot <fot at autox.team.net>
To: Joe Boruch <jaboruch at netzero.net>;fot at autox.team.net
Sent: Saturday, January 21, 2017 3:12 AM
Subject: Re: [Fot] TR3/4 Rear Main Seal
I did get the message but don't have any alternate suggestions for
rear seal if the crank is machined for the earlier seal kits.
- Tony Drews
At 06:57 PM 1/20/2017, Joe Boruch via Fot wrote:
>Not sure if this went thru before, since I did not receive it in my
>inbox and did not receive any replies.? Sorry for the duplication,
>if it went out previously.
>
>The recent discussion of the valve cover gasket reminded me to ask
>about TR3/4 rear main seals.? I know that the new improved Viton
>seals are make to fit cranks that the scroll surface has not been
>machined.? All my cranks have been machined to fit the earlier seal
>kits.? Is there an upgraded seal kit to fit machined cranks or would
>there even be any advantage to using the new seal?? Joe(B)
>
>
>fot at autox.team.net
>
>http://www.fot-racing.com
>
>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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