get someone to push on the pedal while you look at the slave. You should
immediately see clutch lever actuator movement at the transmission. If you
don't, and the air is out, adjust the rods. Question - was there any problem
before you replaced the master - I hate to suggest the possibility that the
tapered pin in the cross shaft is sheared (inside the bell housing) . . .
To Peter's comment, there are two different length "noses" for these
transmissions, but if it was working before with the same size master and
slave, nothing should have changed.
On May 9, 2013, at 9:04 PM, Peter Vucinic wrote:
Mike,
Sounds like the thrust bearing sleeve is moving too far forward and then
locking up on the gearbox nose that guides the clutch thrust bearing
carrier.
Cheers..
Kind Regards
Peter Vucinic
TR-4
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-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces@autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Mike Moore
Sent: Friday, 10 May 2013 10:01 AM
To: 'FOT'
Subject: [Fot] TR4 clutch, help
This is for my race car that I am getting ready for Jefferson 500.
I had to put in new clutch master (Wilwood 5/8, same as was in car), and new
slave (stock from Roadster factory.
With car running when I try to engage gear I have to push clutch all the way
to floor, works in last half inch, but then the clutch pedal sticks and
won't come back up.
I have bled a lot and don't see any more air bubbles.
Do I need to adjust rods on either cylinder or is it air.
Thanks
Mike
Michael T. Moore, CPA
2007 West 32nd Street
Erie, PA 16508
Phone: 814-868-4831 ext 103
Fax: 814-864-7383
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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/pvucinic@netspace.net.au
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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
_______________________________________________
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