Seiously guys, the TR6 joints are crap too. I used them on my street TR3 rack
and pinion conversion, but they're not much compared to the modern stuff. It's
not a competitive advantage, just pure safety. SAE considers 5/8" shafts to be
marginal and 3/4" to be appropriate. For the same price of the original stuff
you can get 3/4" double d with hefty universals that have needle bearings
twice the size of the TR6 stuff. Your choice, your butt.
On Oct 15, 2012, at 5:48 PM, malaboge@aol.com wrote:
> Here's another vote for the TR6 joints...all metal and a direct bolt in.
The
> units with the "rag joint" are only outdone on the the "crummy scale" by
the
> units with eight conical "faucet washers" holding it all together. I do a
lot
> of tech for the local clubs and can't even count all of the bad, torn or
> extremely loose joints I've found. Some were so bad the cars weren't
allowed
> on the track until the joints were fixed.
>
> All cars that come thru the shop with any of the rag/taper washer setups
> automatically get the solid joints installed...now that's really a "safety
> upgrade" ...unlike the song and dances I've heard for brakes, engines,
> trannies...oh wait that's a different rant!
>
> Still tryin to keep it vintage...
> Nick in Norcal
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Tony Drews <tony@tonydrews.com>
> To: fot <fot@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Sun, Oct 14, 2012 6:53 pm
> Subject: [Fot] Steering shaft u-joint TR-4
>
>
> My steering shaft has two u-joints in it. The lower one is a big
> beefy cast thing that I bought from Moss to replace the big beefy
> cast thing that was there before. The upper one isn't quite as heavy
> duty looking but does a much better job of actually clamping onto the
> shaft. I've tightened the sh** out of the lower big beefy one and
> it's still not as tightly clamped as I'd like.
>
> So... Where can I buy alternate u-joints for the TR-4 steering shaft?
>
> Look forward to the advice.
>
> Tony Drews
>
> PS - article on front suspension swap to TR-6 stuff is still coming.
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