You should have the journal radiuses (radii?) welded up after you mag it. The
radiuses are too sharp as they are stock and tend to crack. You may find that
after all this work that you are 3/4 of the price of a billet crank and that
you still have a stock crank that is by no means bullet proof. IMHO spend the
extra $ and get a billet crank. The billet crank with some Pauter rods make a
very durable bottom end. That is what I did 11 years ago and have not
regretted it. My Moldex crank even survived a dropped valve, which destroyed
pistons and Carrillo rods. Joe(B)
---------- Original Message ----------
From: toodamnfunky@comcast.net
To: fot <fot@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Fot] Improving the stock tr4 crank
Date: Wed, 22 Sep 2010 17:05:31 +0000 (UTC)
FoT
I am preparing a fresh crank ( stock ) for next season and I want to do
everything I can to bullet proof it. I will start with Magnafluxing it, then
shot peen, then cryo treatment, balanceB and finally nitriding.
I have had my issues with # 2 main in the past and I want to improve
( if possible ) the oil flow and or volume as best I can.
I have heard the passage in the crank can be drilled out a bit and also
heard the angle of the passage can be changed to better apply oil to
the bearing rather than scrape oil. This will also give me the opportunity
to try Chris's new rear main seal.
Also, has anyone tried different oil pick up configurations or manufacturers?
Any advice would be appreciated.
Thanks,
Jim G
# 102
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