The ones I got from Moss were listed as late TR4 and they had a pin and 3
degrees of camber. Take a look at the moss parts catalog for TR3/4. Part
number part number 661-450 and -460 three degree caster right and left. The
zero degree trunnion is the same for both sides. The proper upper arms are
661-050 and -060 and they use the through-bolted ball joint. these parts are
all listed as late TR4 parts. The TR6 parts do show a different trunnion with
a bolt, specified left and right hand which indicates caster built in, but the
angle isn't specified. I assume 3 degrees.
I know the jag ball joint trick, it adds about a degree, and it causes binding
on the trunnion if you have a good one. Maybe a loose one would be OK. At one
time I tried adjusting the upper arms (heim joints, not standard bits)
differentially to do the same thing and got binding at less than a degree with
old trunnions. The binding got better or worse as the suspension was bumped,
so I decided it wasn't a great idea. I hate it when my steering doesn't work.
Caster shouldn't have much effect on tires, especially small amounts. It
induces a little bit of camber and toe at extremes of travel, but that has
little to do with tire performance since we just don't spend much time there.
As far as steering arms go, I can't answer your question. I had to have arms
made to do what I wanted to do, which was to eliminate bump steer and manage
camber gain. I consider the stock suspension parts to be raw materials.
On Feb 14, 2010, at 11:59 AM, Enquiries wrote:
> Thanks Bill, but I don't think you understand my questions
>
> I don't have a early trunnion. I have the later one that takes a bolt, not
> has a pin in it. As far as I remember , all the early ones used a built in
> pivot pin and they have zero caster.
>
> I have 1 brand new STANPART trunion and everything lines up fine on 1 side
> of the car. It has 3 degress caster machined into it.
>
> I got a replacment TR6 trunion and nothing lines up as its wrongly
machined,
> close to 0 degrees caster.
>
> Changing to a jag top ball joint used to be a common racer trick and does
> not seem to unduly stress the trunnion. It is only 0.110" narrower so you
> put a spacer on 1 side to push it further back against the rear top
> wishbone, and get more caster. I was wanting to know if others are still
> doing this and if the extra caster was beneficial with modern street tyres
>
> No-one seems to be able to answer my question about the differences with
the
> various steeering arms
>
> Thanks
>
> Terry
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