I didn't care. The bump steer and camber gain of the TR3/4 is so screwed that
I knew I would be tweaking everything anyway. Top arm angle is the least of
the problems.
On Feb 13, 2010, at 2:04 PM, Joe Boruch wrote:
> Bill, how did you get the TR6 stuff to work with the TR3. When I looked at
it once, I noted that the TR6 upright is taller than the TR3/4 one. That
would change the angle of the top A-arm. Joe(B)
>
> ---------- Original Message ----------
> From: Bill Babcock <billb@bnj.com>
> To: Terry and Cindy <enquiries@roadandtrack.net.au>
> Cc: fot@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Fot] TR4-6 front end technical queries
> Date: Fri, 12 Feb 2010 21:13:38 -1000
>
> You can't just gain caster with a balljoint change--it will place a bind on
> the trunnion. Peyote has 3 degrees of caster using TR6 parts--nice to have.
>
> Clearly what you got is a TR3/4 trunnion. I got mine from Moss and they
were
> fine.
>
>
> On Feb 12, 2010, at 1:07 PM, Terry and Cindy wrote:
>
>> I have bought what was supposedly a new TR6 trunnion only to find it had
>> zero caster and so the top ball joint does not align with the arms. Also,
>> its sloppier than my 30 year old STANPART one on a band new vertical link.
>> Who makes a good quality 3 degree TR6 type trunnion??
>>
>> Can anyone explain the differences in the steering arms that bolt to the
>> vertical link???? My issue is the steering rack appears to long as the tie
>> rod ends sit out too far even when screwed fully in. I suspect a mis-match
>> with rack and arms. TR4 early (127830/127831), TR4 mid (129386/129387)
>> TR4 late(134541/134542) , TR250, TR6 (307211/307212).
>>
>> Finally, what is the current thinking on caster angle. I have tried some
> jag
>> top ball joints which will give about an extra 1.5 degrees caster.
>>
>>
>> Thanks, terry O'beirne, Australia
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