We have welded the whole thing together and made the cage quite hot before
welding.
Make sure that the gears that hold the axle shaft are press fit and flush
with the cage or they will wear out the half shafts if they wobble.
-----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
Von: fot-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces@autox.team.net] Im
Auftrag von riverside
Gesendet: Freitag, 11. September 2009 17:41
An: yellow-green@sbcglobal.net; William G Rosenbach
Cc: fot@autox.team.net
Betreff: Re: [Fot] Welded Diff & Chuck Gee
My experience is similar. We first tried welding gears together,
but the welds cracked and made some debris. Then we
just filled enough low spots to minimize rotation. still
had a little debris from drain to drain. Never harmed bearings
or seals.
art de armond
----- Original Message -----
From: "William G Rosenbach" <wgrosenbach@juno.com>
To: <yellow-green@sbcglobal.net>
Cc: <fot@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, September 11, 2009 8:37 AM
Subject: Re: [Fot] Welded Diff & Chuck Gee
> Dennis,
> How about TIG weld filling some of the spider gear teeth, preventing them
> rotating and effectively locking the unit. If needed, you can refit
> standard spider gears to return original function. Uses a lot less energy
> to accomplish, as well. There are some applications available (not TR)
> that you can buy spider gears that have not had all their teeth machined.
> There is a little backlash slop going this way but I've never had the
> opportunity to verify what, if anything is getting beaten up by that
> slop, or if it is protective of other parts.
> Bill
>
> On Thu, 10 Sep 2009 20:38:51 -0700 (PDT) Dennis DeLap
> <yellow-green@sbcglobal.net> writes:
>> Amici - I am going to try my hand at welding up a diff.
>>
>> Any tips?
>> Thanks
>> Dennis DeLap
>>
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