You will find that the numbers 2 & 3 are always leaner than the other cylinders
if you are running just a pair of S.U.'s or Strombergs. Were it me, these are
the cylidners I'd have the probe in.
>
> From: "Jack W. Drews" <vinttr4@geneseo.net>
> Date: 2005/05/03 Tue AM 07:01:51 EDT
> To: WEmery7451@aol.com, fot@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: Exhaust Gas Temperature Gage
>
> Mine also shows no gauge reading at idle. The needles are rather slow to
> respond and take a few seconds to catch up to what's going on in the pipes.
> At full song on a long straight several of us see 1400 - 1450. If it's
> running lean, you'll see 1650 but not for very long.
>
> At 12:09 AM 5/3/2005, you wrote:
> >Dear FOT,
> >
> >I finally got around to installing an exhaust gas temperature gage, with
> >sensors in the Number 1 and Number 4 exhaust manifold pipes. The two
> >scales on
> >the gage range from 8 to 16 degrees F, with a 100 multiplier. At first, the
> >gage arrows would not move off of their low points, so the gage may be
> >faulty.
> >Then one of the two arrows started to move upscale, with the other one not
> >moving at all.
> >
> >This brings on the following questions:
> >
> >-Could there be anything else wrong besides the gage being faulty?
> >
> >-Approximately, what temperatures should I be seeing?
> >
> >-If the gage were working properly, are we supposed to adjust the mixture to
> >the carburetors to obtain nearly equal temperature readings of the two
> >needles?
> >
> >I have been adjusting the carburetor jets by turning the nuts out a specified
> >number of turns, and then using a depth gage to set the jets an equal
> >distance down, with the cover, piston, and needles off of the carburetor.
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