I'm using a pair of .70 master cylinders with a Tilton balance bar and
.75 rear wheel cylinders on my TR4. I had .75 MCs and the pedal was
very hard. .70 seems just right. Don
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-fot@Autox.Team.Net [mailto:owner-fot@Autox.Team.Net] On
Behalf Of Bill Babcock
Sent: Thursday, February 03, 2005 1:20 PM
To: Henry Frye; ikorey@comcast.net
Cc: FOT@Autox.Team.Net
Subject: RE: Brake Master Cylinder questions
The reason brake pressure is so high with a failed power brake is that
the
cylinders are large--an engineer told me once that it's a lot easier to
build and fit a short stroke assist servo than a long stroke. I don't
know
why that would be so.
I suspect you'd like a dual cylinder setup with adjustable bias. I'm
playing
around with different master cylinders on Peyote, in part because I have
so
many of them. I know it sounds odd, but I think using two MC of the same
size and adjusting the bias mechanically makes a lot of sense. If
nothing
else you only need one size of rebuild kit to carry around. Right now I
have
paired .70 tiltons. I'll let you folks know how that works out.
Bill Babcock
Babcock & Jenkins
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-fot@Autox.Team.Net [mailto:owner-fot@Autox.Team.Net] On
Behalf
Of Henry Frye
Sent: Thursday, February 03, 2005 4:21 AM
To: ikorey@comcast.net
Cc: FOT@Autox.Team.Net
Subject: Re: Brake Master Cylinder questions
Hi Irv, and the rest the gang...
I am the guy Irv is talking about that has the TR6 m/c with no booster
and
likes it. I believe I am running the system as installed by Bruce
Stutzman
when he built the car. TR6 front calipers with .70 wheel cylinders in
the
back. Finding the right brake lining material made a big difference, I
am
running Panther Plus pads and shoes. Stopping the car is no trouble,
it's
nothing like the pedal pressure required to stop a big power brake
equipped
car when the engine cuts out.
I do think the high pedal pressure makes it easier to modulate threshold
braking. Also, I rarely flat spot tires.
I have also been thinking about changes to my brakes, but if I do I will
be
going with a two master cylinder setup for two reasons. First, I truly
doubt the added safety of the tandem master cylinder. When bleeding the
brakes, when I open any bleeder screw the pedal drops to the floor.
Second,
I like the idea of the adjustability of the front to rear bias.
At 11:06 PM 02/02/2005 +0000, you wrote:
>Friends,
>
>My TR4 vintage racer is currently equipped with the full TR6 brake
>master cylinder/vacuum booster set up. I would like to eliminate the
booster.
|