Bill,
The frame rails are straight until they start to kick up at the rear wheel.
If they slope, then the ride height is different at front and back. That was
my original question. Mine slopes up about 1 1/2" from the front wheels to
the back. I don't know if that's ok, or whether I should try to get it level.
I agree with you about the difficulty of making accurate measurements. The
biggest problem is measuring the dimensions involving the ball joints, i.e.
where is the center of the ball? On my 4th attempt, I think I've finally got
the program dialed in. The early Service Instruction Manual for TR2 (with TR3
supplement) has valuable information and scaled drawings. I took a lot of
dimensions from there and compared them to mine. I can now match the vertical
variation of camber from the manual and from my direct measurements. It's
virtually impossible to get the steering pivot locations accurately enough to
predict bump steer, so I fudged the height of outer joint to match my direct
measurments. Currently, the toe angle changes almost 1 degree for a 1 inch
bump. That's a lot. I thought I was going to need a dial indicator with 2
inch travel. According to the program, I need to bend the steering lever
upward only 0.4" to almost completely eliminate the bump steer. Now that I've
got it dialed in, it will be interesting to play some what if games. I too
would be glad to share any of this information, if you give me a chance to put
it in an understandable form.
Bill Babcock wrote:
> The frame rails slope, so it's always a little hard to derive a correct
> ride height. It's also hard to make good measurements to enter into
> suspension calculations.
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