I'm not an expert on bump steer but.........AFAIK the whole steering rack
should be straight in its normal rested state so that as it moves with the
suspension the effective length change is very small. Lowering a car would
then suggest either the steering rack has to be raised or the the steering
arms effectively lowered so the inner ball joint assemblies are again in
line with the rest of the rack and parallel to the road. No idea how you do
it though.
John Kipping
----- Original Message -----
From: "Larry Young" <cartravel@pobox.com>
To: <fot@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, January 24, 2003 4:33 AM
Subject: Suspension/Handling Questions
> I've been doing a lot of work measuring and analyzing the suspension in
> my TR3 race car. I've spent quite a bit of time going through the
> archives. I can't say that I've read every post, but I think I have a
> pretty good idea of what has been posted. My questions are:
>
> 1. I've got a ride height (to bottom of frame rails) of about 4 1/2
> inch in front and 6 inches in back. What is the stock TR3 ride height
> and is it the same in front and back, i.e. frame rails parallel to the
> ground. What ride heights do most TR3 race cars have front and back? I
> know lower is better, but how low can you go?
>
> 2. I appear to have a horrible bump steer problem, with toe out
> increasing on a bump and decreasing with droop. To correct this I
> believe either the steering arm and idler arm must go down or the
> steering lever attached to the vertical link must go up. I'm thinking
> heating and bending the steering lever will be the easier approach. Is
> this the right thing to do? Do I have to worry about hardness of the
> arm? Any suggestions will be greatly appreciated.
>
> Larry Young
> Forever Young Racing
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