I wasn't following this thread before... so I don't even know the original
question... but guessing... I had put a lot of thought into putting a roll
bar
in my TR 4A... though I still have not done it... but just a thought here....
is a compromise between the two.... BEEF up the frame, by welding sections to
the
frame,underneath the body, that will accept mounting bolts fromthe frame
above...
Theory being... A. the frame steel is rather delicate/thin. B. The
footprint
of the frame is rarely completely clear of obstruction... so very often one only
ends up bolting through it with a couple bolts or in a weak configuration,
etc...
Anyways... you get the idea. I'm all for being able to unbolt the roll bar...
A welder at a shop I used to work out... who has done underwater welding on oil
derricks, etc.... (trained and licensed up the kazoo!) recommended minimum 1
3/4", "WELDABLE" Chrome Moly 41-30 steel.
--Justin
Don Marshall wrote:
> Thanks to all who responded to my question about the Autopower bolt in bar...
>
> The general concensus seems to be that a full cage is better, and that
> welded to the frame is better than bolted to the body, and that bolted to
> the body is better than nothing and might be OK if it's properly attached
> and additional bars are added for more protection. There were several
> examples of the bolt in bar being tested in action satisfactorily.
> Unfortunately, I'm not ready to commit this particular car full time to
> racing, so I'm probably going to have to compromise a bit so I can at least
> get out and play a little while the "real" race car is being redone.
>
> Again, thanks to everyone who responded.. these lists are great !!
>
> Regards..
> Don Marshall
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