On the FOT Racing web page, the red TR-3 (car No. 19) shows my roll cage.
This cage is considerably heavier than the roll cages in the cars of TR-3
racers who have been more successful than me. On the other hand, some of the
lighter cages have been disqualified, and mine was acceptable last season.
I would recommend ordering a SCCA GCR (order number 5675, $25 + $5 shipping)
from SCCA Properties, 9033 E. Easter Place, Englewood, Co. 80112, phone (303)
694-7222. This document goes into great detail on roll cages (provides
pictures); and if you follow this criteria, the cage should be acceptable for
any racing.
My cage is constructed of mild steel tubing (1.50" x 0.095"). The back hoop
is welded to plates, which are connected with four long bolts to under plates
gripping the frame in front of the spring mounting. Two rear supports run
through the trunk lid and are welded to two short heavy angles that pass
through the trunk floor to the frame.
The front hoop is welded to plates, which are connected by four bolts to
under plates -- sandwiching the sheet metal floor. The under plates are tied
to the frame by steel angles. A straight bar runes under the dash, connects
the two sides of the front hoop. Two short bars connect the front hoop to
the slanted part of the floor, with under plates connected to the frame by
steel angles.
Two bars at the top and two bars on each side connect the front and back
hoops. One side bar is lower on the driver's side so as to not interfere
with driving. The rear hoop also includes a diagonal bar from the top left
to the lower right. The bars are padded in the areas where the driver could
hit during an accident.
I did all the cutting, grinding, and welding myself. This was a time
consuming effort causing me to miss a lot of racing. I am pretty sizable,
and I did a lot of standing on my head trying to weld under the dash.
Good luck with yours,
Bill Emery
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