Horses for courses. Use a hammer anywhere on a Ducati, you break
something very expensive. Use a hammer on a Triumph (or a Vincent) you
get the job done. I've used tapered socket approach to get my pushrod
tubes to stop leaking--I borrowed the notion from the old /5 series of
BMW boxer twin motorcycles. Another choice is a very thin coat of the
new "greatest thing since sliced bread" gasket replacement goop called
"the right stuff" or maybe it's the good stuff. Anyway, it's from
Permatex, comes in a long pressurized tube, and it works like magic.
They say to use it in place of gaskets, and it really does work well for
that. Anywhere where you need a gasket's clearance you can use it as a
sealant to improve the seal. Remarkable stuff--doesn't make a mess,
doesn't squeeze out of the joint like silicon, doesn't glue your parts
together. I used it on my oil pan with no gasket. my pan has been
overtightened (which dishes the steel around the holes) and beaten back
flat so many times the steel is probably work hardened. Last time it
pulled it I flattened everything out really nice, laid in a bead of this
goop, and gently tightened it down. The bolts have stayed snug, and--no
leaks.
Bill.
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Malaboge@aol.com [SMTP:Malaboge@aol.com]
> Sent: Sunday, August 24, 1997 12:02 PM
> To: AlexanderJosephH@Waterloo.deere.com; fot@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: Leaky pushrod tubes
>
> In a message dated 97-08-22 10:36:06 EDT,Joe sez
>
> >Triumph Friends...
> >
> >This doesnt seem to work for everyone, but I take a Craftsman socket,
> I
> >think it is a 1/2" drive that necks down into a 3/8" or 1/2" nut
> size.
> >The radius makes a nice contact with the tube at the opening. I tap
> this
> >lightly for an extended period of time, swaging the tube tight
> against
> >the casting. This can be done on the tops of the tubes with head in
> >place or both sides when the head is off.
> >
> >No more leaky tubes on this TR4 race engine :-)
>
> Joe-
> Boy, am I glad you mentioned this method first...
>
> I have used exactly the same method (socket and all) with great luck
> so far.
> I was gonna email this solution, but thought I was probably the only
> "hammer"
> mechanic on the list and didn't want to get the award for being far
> too
> "agricultural" in my approach. <g> My only additional comment is that
> if you
> do this on the bottom of the head after it has been surfaced, run a
> small
> file around the outer edge of the tube as it gets kind of "smeared"
> over when
> the grinder goes over it and leaves a little "tail" on the outer edge
> sometimes.
>
>
> Remember... a little oil leak is OK. You wouldn't want that block to
> rust !
> Nick in Nor Cal
>
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