Good write-up by Eric - I'd add a plastic dead-blow hammer to the list of
tools. Comes in real handy for applying an impact load, but because the
face is soft, no danger of deforming metal. PB Blaster is my rust penetrant
of choice after trying most everything out there. Spray it down good and
let it sit overnight, then repeat before attempting to break things loose.
Another handy tool for really rust frozen bolts and taper pins is a
heat-wrench aka torch. Most folks don't , have oxy-acetylene and propane
torches usually don't get it hot enough. When I was out on our land last
fall, working on the steering on a recently purchased backhoe, I encountered
a real bugger of a taper pin - so frozen in place that a bottle jack lifting
the whole tractor (10,000 pounds) wouldn't budge it. Didn't want to haul my
shoulder high oxy-ac setup down there, so I bought a $49 MAPP gas/oxy setup
at Lowes. The kit has a mixing valve, hoses, and uses 2 bottles the same
size as a propane torch. Enough heat for the job with plenty left over for
future portable needs..
Powder coat, POR, and other pricey products work very well, but all require
good surface prep. I've found that a good etching primer, topped with satin
black Rustoleum lasts a good long time on car that's driven for fun but not
daily. Did my Z that way 13 years ago, and it still looks good from below.
Never in the snow or salt though....
Mark Sedlack
ZROC
Cuyahoga Falls OH
66 1600 http://www.mildevco.net/chevypowereddatsuns/
77 280Z http://www.mildevco.net/chevypowereddatsuns/
----- Original Message -----
From: "Eric Johnson" <snakeranch2@yahoo.com>
To: "Nathaniel Leeds" <nmleeds@mindspring.com>;
<datsun-roadsters@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, August 31, 2006 8:28 PM
Subject: Re: Suspension rebuild - how much slop is too much?
> suspension:
> fun fun, I just finsished two complete suspension
> rebuilds. Get a drop lamp and four good jackstands,
> get the car as high as you physically and safely can,
> unless you like to bend over in a crook for hours on
> end.
>
> Three areas that need dismantled, supension, brakes
> and steering. I would recomend steering teardown at
> the same time if it is a keeper, you dont want to do
> it again.
>
> I put every nut and bolt from supension in a coffee
> can, every one, fill it with simple green or super
> purple and let all that soak to degrease for acouple
> days, rinse and repeat. clean painted hardware looks
> so much nicer. while you are at it degrease all the
> arms and other parts, paint slides right off if you
> soap is strong. dry all parts, prime with this self
> etching paint, paint all parts semi black--not gloss,
> sometimes the gloss dont look right, your call.
>
> Pay attention in the teardwon, left right up and down,
> it all comes into play on the install. take your time
> over the course of a couple weeks cuz you want to
> clean and prep your frame for nice new paint too.
>
> Yep--its a big can of worms, only way to start is just
> do it. spray oil prior to start on every brake line,
> nut and bolt you can see, be real gentle with those
> brake lines, pay attention to the orientation of
> those, sort of a brain buster when you go to put them
> back on
>
> additional cleaner: brake cleaner, any brand six or
> eight cans, cleans out your spindles and other parts
> real good.
>
> DO not beat on any steering part or ball joint to
> remove, you will bugger the threads fast, you need a
> pickle fork and balljoint and pitman arm puller, cheap
> one okay, put mild tension on it and thwack it good
> with a hammer, your two steering arms on idler and
> steering box will pop right off, sort of an aquired
> feel to get it off easy .
>
> lots more to consider. clean and paint and grease
>
>
> Eric Johnson, Imperial Beach, CA
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