It sounds like you are doing it right. Me, I am just trying to get the Car
one
color and a little less of an 'eye sore' (looks good to my sore eye). It
will be flat black paint, not primer. But if I can get it ok for now, I am
happy.
Just enjoying the Ride
Richard
Re: bodywork question
> Warning, longish.
> Boy, have I heard a lot of different stories on this, and there are
> several chicken/egg dilemmas that can just paralize you. I know, I
> been there, and with paint on my little Datsun Truck, I'm still not
> sure if I did it right. There may not be "One Right Way"
>
>
>
> Check and see if the primer has a limited working window. Some do,
> some don't. Referring to step #5, how do you paint right after
> priming if you need to block the car 4 times in order to get the
> waves out? After blocking you'll be wet-sanding with 600 or so grit
> paper, so won't that cause moisture absorbtion?
>
> Over a long period of time I pounded out dents, welded in patch
> panels, etc covering it with rust-oleum primer to protect from
> moisture. When I got it reasonably smooth I used a variety of
> unpleasant methods to remove the paint to bare metal.
>
> I used an etch primer on clean bare metal I used scotchbrite for a
> final abrasive clean, then some pre-cleaner and many lint free
> towels, then sprayed with the etch primer I used an HVLP gun and a
> supplied air hood.
>
> Here I got mixed messages between the Dupont can and the counter
> man. Can said I could use the etch primer as a moisture corrosion
> barrier. Couner man said no. I believed the can.
>
> I then sanded the etch primer to bare metal where needed and added
> filler,smoothing out. The Dupont can warned against using the etch
> primer on plastic filler, and there were bare metal bands around the
> filler repairs. What to do? Use an artist's airbrush to take the
> etch primer up to the feather edge of the filler? C'Mon! I rouged
> up the surface lightly with scotchbrite pads and laid down about 3
> coats of filling primer. Then proceeded to block out the car using a
> long flexible sanding board and 180 grit paper. Found low spots,
> some needed more primer, some needed more filler. that went on for
> awhile. so unless you're on speed and unemployed I can't see how you
> can get a topcoat on "right away. Aftger blocking was done the car
> was wet-sanded with 600 grit wet-dry with a small flexible sanding
> block. Took over a week, so again the painting right away doesn't
> add up.
>
> Then three coats of single stage urethane.
>
> Here's a website with an active forum and some sharp folks.
>
> http://www.autobody101.com/
>
> -Marc
>
>
>
>
> On Apr 17, 2006, at 10:54 PM, Stan wrote:
>
> >
> > 1) Use phosphoric acid to clean and take off the surface rust.
> > 2) Use a metal conditioner
> > 3) Next spray with etching primer
> > 4) Then use a top coat primer such as an epoxy
> > 5) Paint right away as primer absorbs water and causes rusting if not
> > painted
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