Long or short there is no room for the word "easy" in dealing with the
starter with the engine in the car. I think I dread that job more than
anything else I have done. Keeping the starter short is a good start, and
removing the triangle is another good suggestion. The starter bolts are
easier to remove if you have a 2-3 foot extension on your socket and use the
handle somewhere in front of the suspension parts. I suspect the blood and
blue air around the car is what finally lubricated things enough to get that
starter out and back in.....
Tom
69 2000 - Mr. Hyde
Portland
http://www.datsun2000.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-datsun-roadsters@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-datsun-roadsters@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Phillip Brook
Sent: Tuesday, January 04, 2005 3:11 PM
To: JOver4X4@aol.com
Cc: datsun-roadsters@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: starter removal
John,
On late model roadsters you should be able to get the starter out
between the chassis and body. Pull the front wheel off and you'll see
what I mean.
H20 starters are shorter than R/U starters and make the job of removing
and reinstalling easier in the future.
Phill B
On Wednesday, January 5, 2005, at 09:42 AM, JOver4X4@aol.com wrote:
> List,
>
> I know this question has been asked before, perhaps many times, and
> perhaps recently. Anyway, I need to replace a starter on my 68 2000
> with Solex carbs. Is there a way to do this without pulling the carbs
> and manifold(s)? Or, would it be easiest to just succumb to it and
> remove everything?
>
> Secondly, I hear talk of a mini starter, know the vendors have gear
> reduction starters, and, an H20 starter will work. Money is not a big
> issue, for me longevity and reliability are. Which starter should I
> use??
>
> Gerardo.....if you read this please email me off the list.
>
> John Over
> 68 2000
> www.wycroc.org
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