Install the 280Z M/C as it is. You can use the junction
block from a Z or any other Datsun with disc/drum brakes.
The 7/8" M/C will need some more pedal pressure than your
old single cirquit.
Thomas
Mark Sedlack wrote:
> This question is mostly to tap the combined brain trust of the list.
>
> Our 66 had a single piston brake M/C. Don't like the idea of running all four
> corners on one circuit, so I'm replacing that with a 7/8 bore double M/C from
> a 75 280Z ( NIB left over from building the Z).
>
> Initially I'm going to use the stock front calipers since the cylinders are
> good and they have good stopping power ( may do the Volvo thing down the
> road). The 66 did not have any valves of any sort in the hydraulic system -
> no combination, metering, or proportioning. Only had a 4-way junction block
> with the brake light switch.
>
> I know I will need to be able to adjust the front / rear bias, so I have a
> proportioning valve that will be installed in the rear line.
>
> Most modern disk/drum systems have a metering valve ( usually in the
> combination valve) which does not apply any pressure to the fronts before the
> rear line pressure builds to approx 75psi, purportedly to move the rear shoes
> into contact, against the spring retraction force, before the fronts.
> The research I've done on the web and usenet has yielded an evenly matched
> camp of opinions - you know, just like certain anatomy parts, everyone's got
> one... some say you absolutely need a metering valve, others just as adamantly
> say you don't.
> There are a couple of aftermarket stree rod brake system manufactures that
> have these - Master Power and ECI, and they say you need one ( course they
> also sell em too)
>
> What's the consensus here?
>
> Mark Sedlack
> OROC
> Cuyahoga Falls OH
> 66 1600 http://home.neo.rr.com/mark2000/images/datsun1600/
> 77 280Z http://home.neo.rr.com/mark2000/images/datsun1600/Z/Z.htm
>
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