Are you putting the wire on the POSITIVE battery terminal? There should be a
heavy wire running from either the positive battery lead, probably through the
ammeter,
and going to the Alternator output connection. This wire is the hot lead for
the electrical components in the car. I think this is the wire you are
bypassing.
The ignition switch, lighting, and all other accessories, would be connected to
the alternator side of the ammeter. That way any current flowing into the
battery will register a + charge, and if more current is being drawn from the
battery the ammeter will register -.
Many of these power sources radiate from the ignition switch because that is
where accessories, ignition, and the starter, are turned on or off. The
ignition switch itself is fed power through a fairly heavy wire from the
alternator side of the ammeter.
When the headlights are on and you have the wire connected to the coil, do the
headlights stay go off with the ignition off? If so you are bypassing the
ammeter connection somehow and providing power to everything through the
ignition switch.
Use your voltmeter, or power indicator light, to follow the power down the
ammeter lead towards the ignition switch.. You could start with the heavy wire
in the switch to see if there is power there at all. If not you know there is
an open somewhere. With your dash open it is possible that you have opened up a
connection somewhere and you just need to start at the source and work to the
end of the electrical path, from the end back towards the source until you find
the opening.
When you say battery indicate if it is positive or negative. The same for
anything else. You cannot get too detailed because your readers need to
understand what you are doing. I spend about 40 hours a week listening to how
things are wired (T1, T3, Frame Relay telecommunications) and small details
really help to understand what I cannot see so I can tell the customer how to
use his equipment or get AT&T, Sprint, etc. to fix their equipment. Who knows,
someone more familiar with your dash and wiring may recognize what you are
describing and understand your problem.
Tom
Datsun_Sports wrote:
> First - Thx Tom for the help!
>
> I wired around the ammeter and the car would not start. I did not even
> get lights. I did have an interesting experience. I decided to try the
> jumper wire again. I put one end into the battery terminal and the other on
> the coil. when I did the lights would flicker. I tried this several times.
> finally I pulled the wire the last time and they stayed on. I left the wire
> on the battery terminal (not connected to anything else - just in the air)
> and then tried to start the car. it started up and ran. I the wire however
> started to smoke so I shut the engine down and pulled it off the terminal.
> my dad believes that it is a grounding problem. I have the dash pulled and
> all the wires are hanging. I have gone through and replaced connections etc.
> Do you know if the ignition system grounds to the dash at all? I know by now
> everyone thinks I have a spaghetti factory going on but it all looks to be
> in order now. The battery shows 12 volts but im wondering if it is the
> problem. Can a battery show 12 volts on the meter and still be bad? I had it
> tested 2 weeks ago and they said it was good. however these are the guys who
> tested another battery of mine that showed good but when they pulled it out
> of the tester there was fluid everywhere. had a crack in it. any help is
> appreciated. I think when everything is squared away I will be able to apply
> for a job at Nissan!
>
> thx very much!
>
> mike
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Tom Hendricksen" <tom@fransfancies.com>
> To: "'Roadsters (E-mail)'" <Datsun-roadsters@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Saturday, June 22, 2002 7:23 PM
> Subject: Re: latest on the Ignition problem
>
> > Mike,
> >
> > I don't think that Ammeter was my suggestion, but it is in series with
> your
> > battery load/charge path. There is no reason you cannot short
> around/remove it
> > for testing. If you determine that it is defective I would replace it as
> soon
> > as you can find an appropriate meter so you will be able to notice other
> > charging problems. From your description this one has had a rough life.
> >
> > Tom
> >
> > Datsun_Sports wrote:
> >
> > > hey all,
> > >
> > > first thx for the great tips on what to look for! here is the latest. I
> > > bought new wire and connectors and rewired from the distributor to the
> coil,
> > > to the ballast, to the fuse box. car started! very much happy. shut the
> car
> > > down with the switch. very very much happy! ( it would not shut down
> unless
> > > I pulled a jumper wire I was using before), I started car again! she
> ran!
> > > then she stopped :(. now I could not even get a click out of her. so I
> > > jumped her with my truck. car started right up. however it will not stay
> > > running if the cables are removed. in case you missed it from an
> earlier
> > > post I used to have to jump from the coil to the battery to get it
> started.
> > > I must have inadvertently solved that problem because I no longer need
> it.
> > > Tom suggested that maybe the ammeter was bad or shorting out. it is
> missing
> > > the glass and trim ring and looks 35 years old so I hope that is it. Is
> > > there a way to bypass the ammeter until I get a new one? maybe a jumper
> from
> > > the wire going into the gauge to the one coming out? with an inline
> fuse? im
> > > on my way to put a meter on the gauge right now!
> > >
> > > thx,
> > >
> > > mike
> > >
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