We 1600 people don't have all those things to worry about although the
geometry does change a bit for the rockers and probably the chains too, but
Bob Sharp never mentioned the chains when he told you to cut the head to
bring up compression. He did mention about rocker arm geometry though. No
need for us to cut the top of the head although I'm sure it would make
sealing the valve cover easier.
Mike
----- Original Message -----
From: "Peter Long" <Peter.Long@ecologic.ca>
To: "Jim Cawrse" <nqrithjim@hotmail.com>; "roadster list"
<datsun-roadsters@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, April 09, 2002 10:02 AM
Subject: warped heads
> Jim,
>
> something to consider if you find your head is twisted/warped or
> otherwise not flat where it should be: have it straightened before even
> considering milling either side of it. I had this done to a head once,
> and ended up not needing to mill anything at all. As I recall, it was
> not expensive. Saves the dread retarded cam timing and floppy chain
> syndrome due to a thinner head!
>
> Also remember to check parallel between the top surface and bottom
> surface, if possible with the head torqued to a known perfectly flat
> surface...can make a difference between snapping your cam and not. You
> can guess how I know this!
>
> Pete Long
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: Jim Cawrse [mailto:nqrithjim@hotmail.com]
> > Sent: Tuesday, April 09, 2002 9:37 AM
> > To: Datsun Roadsters
> > Subject: Strange Overheating Problem, List Results and thanks!
> >
> >
> > For all:
> > Thanks for the many (about 20) responses to my problem.
> > The majority suggested some sort of small head gasket leak,
> > which would put exhaust into the cooling system.
> >
> > This makes perfect sense, because my radiator did not get
> > hot even as the car was overheating. So, this means the
> > water pump was getting air-bound with exhaust.
> > Centrifigal water pumps dont pump air worth a darn, so this
> > would effectively stop the cooling system from working.
> >
> > It must be a small leak, no water in the oil, no steam out
> > the exhaust, and no detectable (hand over rad cap hole with
> > engine cold and running) fumes coming out.
> >
> > It just so happens that my big cam, and perhaps over
> > exhuberant 6500RPM shifts have pulled loose a
> > rocker stud in the head, so instead of attemping the
> > garage heli-coil I guess I will pull the head and get it
> > fixed right, and also have the head checked for warps
> > and cracks.
> >
> > A few list memebers reminded me to clean out the
> > cooling passages around the cylanders, especially
> > back aft around nr 4. (thanks)
> >
> > Since I'm going this far, might as well pull the engine
> > and tranny and do the clutch, PP, and TO bearing.
> >
> > Since the tranny is out, might as well get it rebuilt,
> > ensure 5th is welded, get the speedo gear fixed,
> > and fix the synchros.
> >
> > In the Navy we call this a "cascading casualty"......
> > ie the fixing of one thing leads to fixing many more
> >
> > In the world of garage maintained roadsters we call
> > this "fun"....
> >
> > I am just happy this coincides with my Navy retirement,
> > as I am on terminal leave and basicly unemployed, yet still
> > getting paid for a few months.
> >
> > Are there still any roadsters on the list in the Chesapeake
> > Virginia or close by area? I might need a hand with some
> > of this. I do have my trusty 13 year old son.
> >
> > Thanks a giant amount for all the help!
> >
> > For those with other ideas, (temp gage, pressure cap)
> > thanks also, I already covered those, just forgot to say so
> > in original post.
> >
> > Jim,
> > Chesapeake Va
> > 67 pushrod 2L 5spd
> > 72 510 sportwagonGet more from the Web. FREE MSN Explorer download :
> > http://explorer.msn.com
> >
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>
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