The single wire alternator also has a voltage regulator, but it's
internal, not external. They do the same thing.
You should not hook at 60+ amp alternator to your stock wiring. If the
load never exceeds 30 amps, you'll be safe. But when it does, you'll
blow your fuse, or worse if for some reason the fuse doesn't blow.
I had an electric radiator fan, directly wired to the battery, and a
stereo. I turned on the electric fan, stereo, lights, wipers and
heater and drew more than 30 amps. With your wiring, I'd blow the
fuse.
--- Eric Frisbee <efris@qwest.net> wrote:
> Great info on the alternators, but... Doesn't the voltage regulator
> prevent
> the full 60 amps from hitting your wiring harness? As I understand
> the
> regulator, it sends only what is required by the electrical load.
> As to
> the amp guage not working, I have to disagree. Mine works
> perfectly,
> although only up to 30 amps which it would rarely hit, unless I have
> a dead
> battery. I have a pair of 30 amp fuses protecting my relatively
> fragile
> amp guage as well. As to the wiring. I am using a stock
> harness on
> the '67 and just hook up the white wire to my AC Delco, with a line
> run to
> #2 post on the alternator. No problems with that set up and it's
> got about
> 6 months of a 160 mile daily drive on it.
>
> Good luck!
> Eric
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Adam Bradley <ambradley@yahoo.com>
> To: <SLBESQ@aol.com>; <datsun-roadsters@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Tuesday, January 01, 2002 3:16 PM
> Subject: Re: alternator conversion help
>
>
> > If you have your alternator in the stock (passenger side) location
> for
> > 67.5, the swap isn't too difficult. You want part number 7127SE
> (self
> > exciting), or you can get 7127 without self-exciting and make a
> wire to
> > run from the #2 prong on the two prong connector to the + post on
> the
> > back of the alternator. The SE is a little more expensive and
> you're
> > not as likely to find it in stock. The part number is followed by
> -3,
> > -6, -9 or -12, which refers to the location of the two prong
> connector,
> > like a clock. -12 is good, so is -3. -6 points down and -9 points
> to
> > the engine so those two are bad choices.
> >
> > There are many wires coming out of the stock alternator; most of
> them
> > go to the voltage regulator, NOT the battery. Only the one
> large(r)
> > wire goes to the battery via the ammeter. I believe there is also
> a
> > ground wire, which is not needed on the one wire conversion.
> >
> > I recall someone saying a 60 amp Z ammeter fits in the 67.5 gauge,
> but
> > I believe you'd have to upgrade the whole wiring harness to get it
> to
> > support that high amperage, so for right now I'll assume you're not
> > going to do any of that.
> >
> > So, connect the alternator in place of the old one. If I'm
> correct, it
> > will fit right in and even the pulley should line up, although the
> > pulley may be a bit smaller. This assumes the late and early
> roadster
> > alternators are the same; the one wire alternator fit right in the
> > stock location of my '70 but the heat destroyed the internal
> regulator
> > (late cars have alternator on driver's side and smog pump on
> passenger
> > side).
> >
> > Anywhoo, wrap up the voltage regulator wires and the hot wire going
> to
> > the old alternator. You will not use any of them. Run a new 8
> gauge
> > wire (wire and crimp-on connectors at your local NAPA auto parts
> store)
> > from the + of the new alternator to the + of the battery.
> >
> > Your ammeter will no longer read properly. A voltmeter is easy to
> > install and gives you essentially the same thing - the health of
> the
> > charging system. They are under $20 for a cheap one and much
> easier to
> > install than an ammeter.
> >
> > Take a look at my alternator pics at
> > <http://www.ofoto.com/I.jsp?m=58213969203&n=435884809>. Mine is on
> a
> > late car so the alternator is pushed forward, but you get the idea
> and
> > the wiring would be the same.
> >
> >
> > --- SLBESQ@aol.com wrote:
> > > hi all
> > > happy new year! may the new year bring all of us peace and
> > > prosperity.
> > >
> > > because it's a holiday, i have some time to spend on the
> roadster. i
> > > have
> > > had to jump it lately, so i wanted to see what the alternator was
> > > putting
> > > out. (battery mounted on passenger side of the trunk) it wasn't
> > > good (12.8
> > > at idle, and drops from there to 6 or 7 with the lights on). i
> > > wanted to
> > > upgrade to the "one-wire" delco, so i guess now is the time.
> > >
> > > is this something that i can do myself? i mean, with my
> obviously
> > > limited
> > > knowledge and skill. what else must i change? how is it that
> only
> > > one wire
> > > comes out of the delco and five or so come out of mine? do i
> need
> > > new
> > > mounting hardware? is there a "kit" for doing this swap?
> > >
> > > thanks a million for all your help.
> > >
> > > steve
> > > 67.5 H20
> > >
> > > /// datsun-roadsters@autox.team.net mailing list
> > > /// Send admin requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or go to
> > > /// http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool
> > > /// Send list postings to datsun-roadsters@autox.team.net
> > >
> >
> >
> > =====
> > Adam
> > '70 1600 SPL311-28181
> > http://www.picturetrail.com/abend
> >
> > /// datsun-roadsters@autox.team.net mailing list
> > /// Send admin requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or go to
> > /// http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool
> > /// Send list postings to datsun-roadsters@autox.team.net
> >
> >
>
=====
Adam
'70 1600 SPL311-28181
http://www.picturetrail.com/abend
/// datsun-roadsters@autox.team.net mailing list
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