Return-path: <HIGHKIX4@aol.com>
From: HIGHKIX4@aol.com
Full-name: HIGHKIX4
Message-ID: <be.14aca371.283671ca@aol.com>
Date: Fri, 18 May 2001 08:38:34 EDT
Subject: Re: Exhaust Manifold Question
To: birdman@myrealbox.com
MIME-Version: 1.0
X-Mailer: AOL 6.0 for Windows US sub 10513
X-Converted-To-Plain-Text: from multipart/alternative by demime 0.97c
X-Converted-To-Plain-Text: Alternative section used was text/plain
I studied this question so much with my car I thought I
would post it to the list, which I usually dont do when
replying to a question.
So:
The stock manifold will not break if the small brace down low on the
manifold to the engine is in place. There is a small performance
gain with the header in street use, the stock manifold flows well.
Power is to be gained by going to a bigger (2inch or whatever
is the biggest that your exhaust guy can fit thru the frame
holes and bend over the rear axle)
exhaust pipe and free flow muffler. But, if you do that ,
you need the flex joint, as there is no longer any room for the
pipe to move around in the frame holes. If you use the
stock exhaust, you dont need a flex, cause the pipe is
fastened by its rubber mounts and moves with
the manifold. Big pipe means you need a flex joint
with either the manifold or header. CDM sells a great
stainless flex for less than 50$ designed for 2 inch
exhaust, I'm sure other venders or regular stores do also,
just letting you know where I got mine.
>From a cost/performance standpoint,
I recommend you use the stock manifold, buy the
flex, and have a good custom exhaust fabricated.
My custom exhaust was about $100, , so with the
CDM flex it was about 150.
For mufflers I used 2 "No name North Carolina
moonshine specials" glass packs, one where
the stock muff goes, one in back where
the stock resonator goes.
Deep, throaty, not cop loud, and fast.
There is a tremendous coolness factor with
the header, so if money is not so important,
by all means get one!
Best Regards,
Jim
Chesapeake Va
67 pushrod 2L 5spd
72 510 wagon
|