I was not suggesting the strengthening to prevent it's loss due to the
damage from a flapping chain. My idea was to prevent the loss of the L due
to stress fractures. I had heard that was a problem on some of these, but
to a much lesser extent. If the chain is a'flapping, it is time for a
change.
Sid
>From: Fred_Katz@ci.sf.ca.us
>Reply-To: Fred_Katz@ci.sf.ca.us
>To: "Patrick P. Castronovo" <slick1@mohaveaz.com>, Alex Avery
><aavery@rica.net>
>CC: datsun-roadsters@autox.team.net
>Subject: Re: The "Oiled L"? Great idea!
>Date: Wed, 16 May 2001 13:11:46 -0700
>
>Here's another reason why getting more oil to the Evil-L is not a solution
>to the problem. Even if you do that, and/or strengthen the Evil-L you still
>have a loose chain that will be re-creating the damage.
>
>And even if you do snap off the Evil-L with a vise-grips, you should still
>fix the loose chain problem as soon as possible. Because a loose chain will
>also slap at the mounting bolts for the upper chain guide. If those bolts
>go, then you're in for a mess of trouble with your engine.
>
>Fred - So.SF
>
>_______________________ Reply Separator ___________________________
>Subject: The "Oiled L"? Great idea!
>Author: Alex Avery <aavery@rica.net>
>Date: 5/16/2001 3:19 PM
>
>
>That is a great idea. If someone does this, take some digi-pics and get
>'em on the list! I'm not sure where or how to set up such an oiler.
>Alex
>
>At 11:08 AM 5/16/01 -0700, Patrick P. Castronovo wrote:
> >It is obvious to me that that part does not hav oil running to it. I
>wonder
> >if fashioning a tube from the oiler to that bracket where the chain
>rides,
> >would lube it sufficently that this would help to eliminate the problem.
> >
> >-----Original Message-----
> >From: Russell Southwell <rulee@cityscape.net>
> >To: Gordon Glasgow <gsglasgow@home.com>
> >Cc: datsun-roadsters@autox.team.net <datsun-roadsters@autox.team.net>
> >Date: Wednesday, May 16, 2001 8:12 AM
> >Subject: Re: The "Evil L" and it's removal...
> >
> >
> >>Gordon, after looking at your excelent pictures of the evil L , I,m
> >wonering if one
> >>can,t weld the damage ( TIG) and reshape it? or is it a hardened piece,
>or
> >wierd
> >>alloy?
> >>Russ Southwell 70 1600, 4 Dead 2L
> >>
> >>Gordon Glasgow wrote:
> >>
> >>> I can't think of any way to cut it off that won't introduce a lot of
> >metal
> >>> shavings into the engine. Why not just shim the tensioner and take the
> >slack out
> >>> of the chain? If the timing chains are new and the head hasn't been
>cut a
> >ton,
> >>> it should be easy.
> >>>
> >>> Your timing will not be affected by that chain. The timing is
>controlled
> >by the
> >>> lower chain (from the crank to the jackshaft).
> >>>
> >>> To Chris: Yes, the "Evil L" is that upper bracket. And here's how bad
> >they can
> >>> get:
> >>> http://www.gordon-glasgow.org/images/Evil_L_3.JPG
> >>> http://www.gordon-glasgow.org/images/Evil_L_4.JPG
> >>> http://www.gordon-glasgow.org/images/Evil_L_2_closeup.JPG
> >>>
> >>> Gordon Glasgow
> >>> Renton, WA
> >>>
> >>> -----Original Message-----
> >>> From: owner-datsun-roadsters@autox.team.net
> >>> [mailto:owner-datsun-roadsters@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Ken Pearce
> >>> Sent: Sunday, May 13, 2001 11:13 PM
> >>> To: datsun-roadsters@autox.team.net
> >>> Subject: The "Evil L" and it's removal...
> >>>
> >>> Questions questions questions...
> >>>
> >>> 1.) I want to remove the "Evil L" before my timing chain does the job
> >for
> >>> me. I took off the valve cover today to inspect it, and while the
> >knotches
> >>> worn into the bracket are only about a 1/16" deep, I don't like the
>idea
> >of
> >>> metal shavings in the engine. All the timing components are almost
>new,
> >I
> >>> just need to get cam tower shims when I have the $$$...
> >>>
> >>> What's the best way to remove the piece of the bracket? I would
>rather
> >not
> >>> remove the cam sprocket if I don't absolutely have to. If I have to
>cut
> >it
> >>> with a hacksaw, I would have to stuff clean rags down the front of the
> >>> engine to prevent any shavings from falling down there. Maybe a
>magnet
> >>> placed directly below the sawing would help? Will the L just break
>off
> >if I
> >>> put some vice-grips on it and start bending? It doesn't look like I
>can
> >get
> >>> a dremel in there. :(
> >>>
> >>> 2.) Assuming I get the L removed, is my engine timing affected that
>much
> >my
> >>> the chain being a little loose at low rpm? I guess I could check it
>with
> >a
> >>> timing light at various rpm levels...
> >>>
> >>> 3.) I bought one of those really cool stainless steel SU carb
> >heatshields
> >>> last year at Shasta but still haven't installed it. Has anyone
>installed
> >>> one of these without pulling the carbs? Every way I try to slide the
> >>> heatshield in there is blocked by something of other...
> >>>
> >>> I did a little arc welding today with the throttle cable and the
>positive
> >>> battery terminal. Very exciting! Of all the places that cable could
> >have
> >>> landed, it had to be on the terminal! Murphy's way of reminding me to
>be
> >>> more careful!
> >>>
> >>> Thanks in advance,
> >>>
> >>> Ken Pearce, 68-2000
> >>> Bellingham, WA
> >>>
> >>> _________________________________________________________________
_________________________________________________________________
|
