That is a great idea. If someone does this, take some digi-pics and get
'em on the list! I'm not sure where or how to set up such an oiler.
Alex
At 11:08 AM 5/16/01 -0700, Patrick P. Castronovo wrote:
>It is obvious to me that that part does not hav oil running to it. I wonder
>if fashioning a tube from the oiler to that bracket where the chain rides,
>would lube it sufficently that this would help to eliminate the problem.
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Russell Southwell <rulee@cityscape.net>
>To: Gordon Glasgow <gsglasgow@home.com>
>Cc: datsun-roadsters@autox.team.net <datsun-roadsters@autox.team.net>
>Date: Wednesday, May 16, 2001 8:12 AM
>Subject: Re: The "Evil L" and it's removal...
>
>
>>Gordon, after looking at your excelent pictures of the evil L , I,m
>wonering if one
>>can,t weld the damage ( TIG) and reshape it? or is it a hardened piece, or
>wierd
>>alloy?
>>Russ Southwell 70 1600, 4 Dead 2L
>>
>>Gordon Glasgow wrote:
>>
>>> I can't think of any way to cut it off that won't introduce a lot of
>metal
>>> shavings into the engine. Why not just shim the tensioner and take the
>slack out
>>> of the chain? If the timing chains are new and the head hasn't been cut a
>ton,
>>> it should be easy.
>>>
>>> Your timing will not be affected by that chain. The timing is controlled
>by the
>>> lower chain (from the crank to the jackshaft).
>>>
>>> To Chris: Yes, the "Evil L" is that upper bracket. And here's how bad
>they can
>>> get:
>>> http://www.gordon-glasgow.org/images/Evil_L_3.JPG
>>> http://www.gordon-glasgow.org/images/Evil_L_4.JPG
>>> http://www.gordon-glasgow.org/images/Evil_L_2_closeup.JPG
>>>
>>> Gordon Glasgow
>>> Renton, WA
>>>
>>> -----Original Message-----
>>> From: owner-datsun-roadsters@autox.team.net
>>> [mailto:owner-datsun-roadsters@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Ken Pearce
>>> Sent: Sunday, May 13, 2001 11:13 PM
>>> To: datsun-roadsters@autox.team.net
>>> Subject: The "Evil L" and it's removal...
>>>
>>> Questions questions questions...
>>>
>>> 1.) I want to remove the "Evil L" before my timing chain does the job
>for
>>> me. I took off the valve cover today to inspect it, and while the
>knotches
>>> worn into the bracket are only about a 1/16" deep, I don't like the idea
>of
>>> metal shavings in the engine. All the timing components are almost new,
>I
>>> just need to get cam tower shims when I have the $$$...
>>>
>>> What's the best way to remove the piece of the bracket? I would rather
>not
>>> remove the cam sprocket if I don't absolutely have to. If I have to cut
>it
>>> with a hacksaw, I would have to stuff clean rags down the front of the
>>> engine to prevent any shavings from falling down there. Maybe a magnet
>>> placed directly below the sawing would help? Will the L just break off
>if I
>>> put some vice-grips on it and start bending? It doesn't look like I can
>get
>>> a dremel in there. :(
>>>
>>> 2.) Assuming I get the L removed, is my engine timing affected that much
>my
>>> the chain being a little loose at low rpm? I guess I could check it with
>a
>>> timing light at various rpm levels...
>>>
>>> 3.) I bought one of those really cool stainless steel SU carb
>heatshields
>>> last year at Shasta but still haven't installed it. Has anyone installed
>>> one of these without pulling the carbs? Every way I try to slide the
>>> heatshield in there is blocked by something of other...
>>>
>>> I did a little arc welding today with the throttle cable and the positive
>>> battery terminal. Very exciting! Of all the places that cable could
>have
>>> landed, it had to be on the terminal! Murphy's way of reminding me to be
>>> more careful!
>>>
>>> Thanks in advance,
>>>
>>> Ken Pearce, 68-2000
>>> Bellingham, WA
>>>
>>> _________________________________________________________________
|
